[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

I really hope i’m wrong, but I think your design might have a flaw….

VRSenator065 wrote:

Modeled up the end design for the air boxes. Have run out of ABS filament though, so might have to wait a day or so.

If you run a boxed intake to the front of the bonnet, and seal it up against the underside of the bonnet, is it possible that the two rear-most throttle bodies will be starved of air? A 454 will need a LOT of air at full noise. Judging by the relatively small volume of your ITB shrouds, and the fact that all of the air will be coming from the front of them, I’m worried the front throttle bodies will get plenty of air, but as the air flows and gets sucked into every individual throttle body, there will basically be none left for the rear ones. I hope i’m wrong, but after seeing the science that goes into a FAST or even standard LS intake manifold to keep the airflow even to each cylinder, I worry that your setup will starve the rear ports of air under high vacuum.

I’m not an expert, hopefully one can tell me i’m wrong?

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

As above ^^^

I know you favour function over form, but after having spent so much time preserving the clean look of this car those scoops would ruin it.

Proper engineering tends to have a beauty of it’s own, and those scoops have none lol. The reverse cowl seems the most obvious and elegant solution, but i think there might be a cleaner way still…..

 

 

If I come up with it i’ll let you know

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

thanks for the replies everyone.

GOOD NEWS!! I drove both a VF SSv (6 litre) and a VE clubby (6.2l) just to compare.

I can say two things immediately – firstly, the VF interior is streets ahead of anything before it, what a nice place to be.

secondly, and probably more controversial – the VE had much better steering feel, i suspect because it still has hydraulic steering vs the VF’s electronic. The VF was on 20’s vs the VE on 19s, and still the VE was much more precise, with more feedback. Both were very refined (compared the monaro at least), and surprisingly didn’t feel as heavy as I imagined until you really push it, but the wider rubber makes up for that a little too.

Gives me food for thought….. Thanks again guys

 

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

TUFGMH wrote:

My main gripe with JC is there seem to be no real experts in the areas I make queries who have experience, so a decent technical question gets zero response. That, and the allowance for members to ask the same questions over and over again (eg. Will VE SS wheels fit my VT Commy?) even though there is usually a thread 3 below theirs. I have been a member of most forums for the past 13yrs, so I am at the point of pretty much knowing what I need to know and rarely need to make a query.

This^^ there are forums for those who only just learnt what a socket set is, or wonder why they can’t fit 22 inch wheels on their slammed vt.

And then there’s people who designed and fabricated their suspension from scratch (IJ) or fit an LSX454 into a VR Senator and got it completely legalised and engineered…

I just searched latest posts and found this

Atlas Grey VQ Statesman 304

people having a conversation about pros and cons of boring/stroking a holden block certain ways and it’s capacity limitations etc. Conversations like that don’t exist much these days :(

To those of us that have spent more time under our cars than we have in them, those conversations are much more valuable.

 

• This reply was modified 7 years, 5 months ago by  Dan811.

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

Its a fine art for sure, but if you’re willing to put the time in and find the right combo for your paint, it’s worth it (depending on how anal you are)

it’s also not cheap, finding the right tools and buffing/cutting pads takes time, learning how to wash the pads properly takes time, learning how to constantly flush residue off the pads as you’re using them takes time.

I really recommend watching the ammo nyc videos, they helped me understand what the pads/products are actually doing and why they all produce slightly different results.

Now, I only polish once/twice a year, and apply wax every 3-4 washes. And after having done it a few times, you learn how to do it quickly and safely too. Washing is also heaps quicker because having a layer of wax on means the dirt/water doesn’t stick to your paint, it comes off nice and easy.

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

VS 5.0 wrote:

After going to all that effort, don’t use a shamy. to dry the car. Far better off with a microfibre drying cloth to avoid any marring of the paint.

^^^ THIS!

have a look at AMMO NYC and Larry Kosilla’s videos on youtube, he’s one of the top car detailers full stop. I’ve got terribly soft red paint on the monaro and couldn’t work out why there were always tiny hairline scratches on it all the time. I only realised after watching a couple of his videos that I was actually causing them because of the way I washed and dried my car.

Also definitely going to try the 3D products, i’m not entirely happy with the meguiars stuff at the moment. It’s not bad, just not great for my application.

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

For a clutch to fail like that is more than likely a manufacturing fault, as you say the clutch plates and flywheel look perfect so it doesn’t look like an overheating issue.

The problem is that if they find out it was used for drifting they probably won’t care, they’ll probably say they won’t warranty it because of improper/competition use or something like that. Let us know what happens, i’m interested to know how they respond??

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

wow… just wow…

That’s a pretty complete build, I don’t know how i’d improve it to be honest… Maybe a gear vendors overdrive to make the glide more useable, but otherwise this thing is about as mint as it gets, inside and out

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

Those wheels are killer I reckon they suit the car to a T. Don’t think i’ve ever seen them before either, so points for uniqueness too.

Surely you find grip a struggle with no sidewall tho :( even on invos, that’s gotta be the biggest downside to wheels like that. To me form follows function, so 18s are the best compromise. If I saw your car at a show, i’d still buy you a beer if I could 

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

That colour is awesome, in the sun the car will look magic.

Can’t wait to see this thing together

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

Anonymous wrote:

595 is the big tyre in the pic I posted..

sorry to correct, it’s a 595 RSRR in that photo (the most “hardcore” road tyre they make). Just pointing this out to avoid confusion with the regular 595SS or the 595RSR (also a good tyre).

On a side note, I just got a pair of michelin Pilot Super Sports on the back of the monaro, and they are a very impressive tyre. They need to be a little warm to work properly, and they aren’t super amazing in terms of straight-line grip (still good though, and rear camber doesn’t help), but their lateral grip and feedback are amazing. I’ve used federal 595SS, pzero neros, kuhmo KU39s and achilles ATRs, and the michelins are by far the best in the twisties.

It’s also worth noting that they are also the QUIETEST of the above tyres, and this is actually the reason i went with them over a semi-slick tyre. They are quite alot more expensive than the hankook RS3 or 595RSRR, but I can almost guarantee they’ll be quieter, and probably more comfortable.

It really depends on what you’re after, but for me I needed a tyre that did everything, and the coilovers added to the road noise more than I realised they would.

Either way I hope this info helps

 

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Dan811 wrote:

Me: why do you have 15 pairs of shoes?….

Brave…….

Yes, I suppose it is brave, but I probably paid for most of them, so she can’t really complain…

The point really is that if you quiz anyone enough, you’ll find they have a passion/hobby that they spend silly amounts of time/money on. Just because we happen to love cars doesn’t make it weirder than collecting stamps or shoes or football memorabilia.

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

drums need skins :(

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

wife: you spend so much money and time on that thing, it must be the most unreliable car in the world if you need to work on it so much.

Me: it’s not broken, i’m just tinkering with it.

wife: why do you need to mess with it if there’s nothing wrong with it?

Me: why do you have 15 pairs of shoes?….

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

Don’t take this as a dig, but I have to ask about the elephant in the corner…

Why carburettors????? I could almost understand if you were putting the motor into an old car that didn’t have the wiring for it.

But on a project that will have it’s own challenges and difficulties, surely the fact that the wiring and EFI tuning capability is already there makes it a no-brainer? Again, it’s not a bad thing, just curious as to your motivation?

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

no they don’t run AFM, yes you can bolt a T56 straight up

as for cam options, they’re practically as limitless as any other LS engine.

It’s based on an LS3 but with a slightly stronger bottom end, which should make it more durable than an L98. The LSA has an Eaton 1.9 L supercharger, which obviously can be overdriven or you could change it out for any other LS3-based supercharger (which probably isn’t necessary unless you’re chasing mega HP).

On a side note, the LSA supercharger sticks out a bit, you’ll likely have a problem with hood clearance. You can change the supercharger top plate over to an LS9 unit which helps a little.

Also on the cost side, the LSA becomes even more cost effective when you consider that it usually comes with a clutch as a crate motor (if you’re going manual).

• This reply was modified 8 years, 2 months ago by  Dan811.

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

Marzella wrote:

Awesome stuff, looks like a lot of fun! Koenigsegg 3D print their variable geometry turbine housings in stainless steel, inc. the internal moving parts and threads all in one hit! Crazy to think where 3D printing could eventually go…

They also 3D print their exhaust tips out of Titanium, then colour it with a blowtorch… Because racecar

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

I don’t know if it’s an option or if you’re after something custom, but I know someone who just took delivery of a 3D printer?………

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

WOOOOW!!!! That is the coolest thing ever…..

You don’t have to answer coz it’s rude to ask, but how much is a unit like that? And what materials can you print with?

I see some very cool things being made on that baby

[Dan811Participant SE Melbourne02 Monaro M6 LS1 View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 124]

Surfwagon wrote:

I think the people that say sway bars make the car ride stiffer are most probably already running on lowered suspension (lower than FE2).

The easy answer is that the sway bars attach left and right wheels together in such a way that they’re never truly independent.

When your left wheel feels a bump, the swaybar transfers some of that force to the right hand wheel, so the bumps are felt through the whole car rather than isolated to one wheel. if you’ve ever disconnected your swaybars altogether just for fun, you’ll immediately notice that you feel bumps alot less.

I even considered disconnecting mine whilst driving around normally, but decided I shouldn’t have to just to make it comfy.

• This reply was modified 8 years, 3 months ago by  Dan811.

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