Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Came up mint mate love the induction pipe work!!!! Guessing has next to zero traction now haha.
Cheers.I’m happy with how the ducting came up and it handled the boost just fine.Also glad i recirculated the bypass valve as you can hardly hear it dumping after boosting.Traction is always limited to the right foot lol.
Engine bay looks great all finished up! Will be a proper handful now.. as if it wasn’t already. You’ve gotta be happy with that. Now you need some annual leave for driving time!
Thanks,i was happy to leave the dyno behind the wheel…you never know these days can end….12 psi on 10.1, pump 98 and another 1000 rpm to go will see me at 14/15 psi.Has got me puckered up thinking about the next time it goes back on.
Solid numbers mate, awesome. +1 for driving it for a while and enjoying it. great stuff.
Thanks.Yeah it will be good to get out and drive it,even if it is only to 5200 rpm.
Well, nearly 2 years later and dyno day has arrived.Took a couple of days off work to install injectors,re assemble ducting,mix W/M,oil change etc etc and cross fingers for dyno session.Also had a bloke out to mod plate all the area’s I’ve modified over the years including the blower,it was a long list…
After a couple of hiccups including a Bosch to US car type injector adapter having no electrodes,and a carbon canister vacuum issue, the rest of the day went well.The only down side being i ran out of fuel pressure and couldn’t rev past 6000 rpm without lean out.We did think this may happen but the tuner thought we may get over the line with one 044 and low boost.Boost ended up more than i thought it would be.
Original 400 hp aspirated line is at the bottom of the power runs.
Power was around the mid 450 mark after a few runs and IAT temps were 76C.Turned on the spray and power dipped to 440 hp and AFR went rich by a full point.Pulled some fuel and added 2 to 3 degrees more timing.Next run went 492 hp and IAT temp dropped to 40C and ran out of fuel pressure….Room temp was around 31C.
I’m thinking the car is close to it’s limit boost wise,the tuner doesn’t seem too worried about the extra revs and boost once fuel is sorted.Peak torque area was the concern.
Have to say i’m pretty happy with the day’s results.The car is still punchy down low and just get’s stronger with revs.A custom blower cam and less comp would yield better numbers but it is what it is.
I’m sure the lack of a intercooler is why i’m seeing good boost levels,traction is now a problem….again.
I’m going to just drive it for a while instead of working on it and maybe sort out some extra fuel pressure over the xmas break.Get it back on the dyno and it will see over 500hp.That will do me.
The finished engine bay.
W/M tank surged like bitch before the wiffle balls.Played up with the tank level sensor.All good now.
-
This reply was modified 7 years, 5 months ago by
VS 355 UTE.
-
This reply was modified 7 years, 5 months ago by VS 355 UTE.
-
This reply was modified 7 years, 5 months ago by VS 355 UTE.
My mistake,thought you were burning pump 98.No need for the spray then.
I had vague off centre steering,suppose i just accepted it as how a 20 year old car behaves.At this stage i had the usual king/koni combo.Added adj sway bars and had a play with different settings.I found the harder i went on the settings the sharper the steering became.31mm setting was too harsh so didn’t bother with 32mm hole.30mm or the standard position had no steering play at all when turning into corner but if i hit a decent bump in the road it transferred it across to the other side.So i settled on the softest 29mm hole and had a small play in the steering but a better ride quality.Installed coil overs now, so will go back and try different settings.Anyway have a play around with your settings Senator,each hole is a big step.
VR-VS don’t have a lot of caster apparently,adj rods let you move wheels forward until they touch inner guard.Makes for very direct steering.Steering wheel will come back to centre quickly if you take your hands off.Makes steering heavier but no big deal with power steering.I like it a lot,especially at speed.
I reckon these cars can handle pretty good for what they are.Mine should be a dog with a heavy cast iron V8 up front and nothing out the back but it holds it own against similar type sedans.
Considered turning on the W/M system to help with the extra timing?Just for detonation control i mean.It looks like it’s responding really well to only one degree.The spray would allow another 2 to 3 degrees with a good safety margin…..might as well add a few more lbs boost…..and now you have zero traction ha ha.
I’d have a permanent grin on my dial if i had that power to play with every time i went for a drive.I bet it sounds bloody good too.
This reply has been reported for inappropriate content.
396 with overbore gets you 402ci in standard block. 365-370ci is the sweet spot.
Can’t say i’ve ever come across a 402ci Holden with factory block,can be done but would require a 60 thou over bore.Not greatest starting point for a strong bottom end i would think.
Agree 370ci would be the best balance of torque vs revs.Shame C.O.M.E. or Scat don’t make them.
Sounds like you have it sorted.Engine bay heat won’t affect the connection.
If you doing more sparky work on the car in the future grab some shrink wrap,it’s cheap and is great for say joining wire when spliced and soldered,never come apart.
I have twin earth wires,you might as well make it as good as you can while your at it.
Just a suggestion.Crimp the wire so it’s slightly extends through,put some solder on the wire so it’s now held at two points on the connector.Now slide over some shrink wrap so it covers the crimp join and down the wire say an inch,then heat to shrink.Will be a stronger connection long term and keeps out moisture.I don’t trust just crimping alone especially when there is movement.
Don’t make the mistake of crimping connectors before sliding on shrink wrap and keep it away from the area you solder,the wire gets hot and starts the shrinking.I’ve done both stuff ups.
Two wires to + battery post from each relay,then from each relay the wires connect to the two + terminals on the fan connector,so each wire feeds one fan motor individually.Mine are switched on by the Autronic at 183 F and off at 180 F.They should turn on at their fastest speed wired this way.As the diagram shows it requires another switch/relay to get the low speed function.Good luck.
By the way i’m no auto electrician,so others might disagree with the above,just like to learn more as i get older lol.
I have the AU fans and they are wired to come on at full speed when switched on.They draw 50 amps at their fastest speed.The auto electricians originally only used a single relay and it eventually melted that and stopped the fans.These fans work really well but they draw a heap of juice.
Your 40 amp feed wire might be on the light side.Mine has a heavy gauge wire to feed each relay and fan.
Stout engine this one.Just shows if built right and tuned well the old Holden can make good H/P.
Fingers crossed the extra timing doesn’t increase the cylinder pressure to a point where the heads start to lift. Tuner says to me “This thing loves timing, 32 degrees before it stopped making power we will leave it there”The engine leaked coolant into valley from day one and I could never get it to seal up.Engine re build No 2 and together with bigger head studs,o rings and 28 degrees timing and a few other things it’s been solid ever since.The longer inner studs stretch first.The Vortech I’ve recently fitted may find a weakness….hope not.
Just thought I’d share my nightmare lol.
I don’t run a thermostat in summer,put it back in for winter and I drilled a couple of 1/8 holes in mine.
Looks mint mate. Many plan to shroud the intake pipe?
Thanks Cava.Yes definitely needs to be shielded from the stones/water run off as tyre is close when turned.
Beautiful. You should be really proud of this car. Gotta love a black VS ute Be great to see how it turns out after a tune!
Cheers.Yeh I’m keen to tune it asap.I want to feel the boost lol.
That has come up nice as well done 4mm is heaps lol, I have 4mm clearances in front as well ice idea with the brace, I see mustang boys brace it to the strut top but back to engine is much better
Had to come up with some idea to brace bracket as there was no room for the Vortech brace which works well but loads the crank snout even more,not good for my Harrop crank.Wouldn’t trouble your billet one.
Tuff. Whats the plan with the intake pipe? Are you painting it? Looking awesome anyway vs 355 do you know what boost your running???
Will get a coat of paint after it’s tuned.Just want to make sure it doesn’t need any clearancing etc once I can give it full throttle.Boost…not sure what it will make but it’s pullied for max impeller speed at 7000rpm.Was planning on 8 to 10 psi.If it makes more I might bring down rpm or give it more W/M.Comp is high at 10.1 with cast heads.
Your right,lot of work.Did that three times on first dodgy engine build trying different head gaskets,engine out twice also.Would be nice to have the extra head bolts.Good luck with the new tune.
Well,been a while since last update and i’m glad to be able to say it’s back on the road.Haven’t driven the ute for 18 months so it was good to get back behind the wheel if only for some short cruising.Everything is on and working except W/M,need to wire that up.This was the first time the new suspension had seen the road so after a quick string line,it showed about 15mm toe in both sides due to adj radius rods.Sorted that and it drove surprisingly well,its firm but the DMS set up rides the bumps really well especially with the 20″ wheels.Will have to get a wheel alignment and camber/castor check done soon.
It hasn’t been tuned for the Vortech yet so it doesn’t like any decent throttle input,just bogs down and plays up….fair enough it’s not used to getting air forced down it’s throat. Also it is a tight fit with the cog drive,PWR radiator,AU fans and crank angle sensor wheel only leaving about 4mm clearance between idler pulley and fan shroud and that’s with a little work with the grinder.
Anyway it’s finally coming together.Some pics.
Need to get shroud made up for filter at some stage after it’s tuned.
got a new set of head gaskets coming soon along with head studs
Curious to know what head gaskets your using now and what your upgrading too Cometics?Have you got o rings?Also are you using bolts instead of studs or are you going to the bigger 1/2 inch studs in the centre?
Car looks great,should be able to put more of that power down now with those tyres.
Some small progress and a few parts arrived this week so i thought i’d do an update.
6mm W/M line has been run to engine bay and metering valve is installed.Need to run 4mm line and T fitting to complete supply line.Pump relay fitted and wiring routed into cabin.Still need to wire majority of the electrical.
Had a 68mm core PWR radiator custom made to suit the changes for the blower and to get better cooling.Blown away by the quality and craftsmanship…as you would expect for the outlay.Took the time to get the AU thermos to mount neatly this time and after a quick check it looks like it should work out as planned.Trial fit of radiator also went well but will be a snug fit,especially after fans are in place around the idler pulley.
Have wanted to fit a power steering cooler since it boiled itself at a track day and i missed the majority of the sessions fixing the cap seal.This should fix that.Will mount it off the existing oil cooler.
Finished templates for blower bracket support and are now at the engineers to be machined.This will give you an idea of what it will look like once complete.Cheers.
Its very much each to own I suppose. I simply like the ease of A2A, once cooler is on that’s it is done. Meth you have to constantly mix a solution, make sure it’s topped up etc. always have it on hand for big drive etc etc. It’s more a track orientated thing IMO. Which lets be honest is the only place your going to care about MAX effort HP. Ive looked into water/meth but I’ll wait to see how my IAT’s are before I jump on board with it.
A2A is always going to be the best choice if you don’t like maintenance and on going costs.As mine is a ute ,i had the opportunity to have a 20 litre tank($35.00 to fill at 50/50),and should last month’s of weekend driving and no need for fill ups on track days.Long drives would be fine unless you plan on being on boost to get there,off or low boost there’s no spray.A small tank capacity would be a pain long term.
I agree about e85 and cooler,if you could get it at most servo’s it’s the go…..sadly it’s unavailable around where i live and hard to find on a journey.Worse than having a tank of w/m in my opinion.Flex sensor would fix that but would need a compatable ECU. I also had the problem of the reduced air flow and additional heat to a marginal cooling system.
I think Pete is going to run it on his Manta isn’t he, be interesting to see how that that all goes.
Manta has good IAT’s ,so spray wouldn’t have a big impact on that.Would benefit if timing and boost were increased.
-
This reply was modified 7 years, 9 months ago by VS 355 UTE.
Wow you read my mind, vs 355 ute i was going to pm you pretty much what you have written with pros and cons. Appreciate you taking the time to write it up. Im leaning towards either Snow or Aem w/m injection. Im looking at what fail safes they both offer and the snow seems to intergrate easier with a fall back tune which i can store in my ems should the system fail. My biggest concern was cutting up the bay to run the cooler. Even if i go w/m i can still add a cooler later. Cheers
No problem,you need as much info as you can get before making a decision.Snow would be my choice from those two kits.
Both W/M and A2A will do a good job of reducing inlet temps but only one will give you a 110+ octane rating.It’s the spray’s ability to prevent/eliminate knock that persuaded me to install this system over a traditional intercooler set up.It has other benefits as well but this was the main reason for my choice.Iron heads,10.1 comp and boost on pump fuel was going to be a balancing act to control detonation,especially i wanted to add some timing.I’m not against A2A,i have it on my daily,works great and wouldn’t change it ,but my 355 ute hasn’t been built for boost and W/M will work best for this engine in my opinion.
Pros and cons of W/M vs A2A:
PRO
* Ability to run more boost on higher comp with more timing with pump fuels.
* No reduction of boost/better response without intercooler core and piping.
* Same results every time. Intercooling isn’t affected by ambient temps, road speed or engine load.
* Lower EGT’s(high boost)
* W/M ratio changes to suit application or engine type e.g. rotary.
* Better air flow to radiator.
* Steam cleaning of valves,piston crowns etc
* Better weight distribution.(Car dependent)
* Can be removed and re installed on next car.
CON
* Maintenance required e.g. filling of tank,cleaning of filters etc.Replacement of parts long term.A2A is set and forget.
* Some sort of fail safe required if pump fails or nozzle blocks.Stops engine rebuild.
* Even distribution to all cylinders.
* Can be a more involved install depending on kit’s supplier.
* Ongoing cost of buying Meth and distilled water.
* Keeping and handling of meth and storing it at home.
Costs are pretty even due to entry level W/M kits and Chinese intercooler cores available.
Good dyno tune will make or break either set up.
Hope this helps you in choosing the right system for your ute.No bad choices here.
-
This reply was modified 7 years, 5 months ago by
