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  • #33445
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    dave
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    Member since: March 6, 2015
    Posts: 46

    Hi,

    Sounds like you checking all the right stuff. Spark, fuel. Fuel pressure should be around 40 psi. You could pull some plugs out and check if they are wet with fuel or lift the fuel rail and injectors up and crank the engine and visually check spray. Do you have fuel and spark with the ignition in the run position as well as crank position? Steam pipe you will need to run to the top of the radiator for best bleeding off of air in the cooling system.

    #33361
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    dave
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    Ok. Thanks for that info. Think I will chase up a VN, VP tank and go that way as well.

    #33353
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    dave
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    Member since: March 6, 2015
    Posts: 46

    Hi, I asked about fuel pump setups for early commodore other day. You replied you fitted VN tank with after market walbro pump that works well. Did the VN tank fit straight in? Did you modify the pump pick up area in the tank at all?

    Dave

    #33320
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    dave
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    Hi, what style of fuel pump are you planning on running. I have a VK with LS L98 engine and using an external bosch 044. Have the reg up on the fuel rail so running return from engine back to tank. It works fine but it is quite noisy especially after driving for a bit as the fuel starts to heat up. Was thinking of some other options. Keen to hear what other people with early commodores are doing.

    #31173
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    dave
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    I agree that your cooling issue is the radiator not having enough cooling capacity if it is a 6 cylinder VK item. More power you make the more heat you make and that heat has to be removed from the coolant. Meaning the surface area of the cores needs to be larger. Either more rows of cores or larger cores or physically larger radiator area. Good write up on the build, sounds like it has been an enjoyable and rewarding build. Always good when you finally get it up and running and mobile.

    Dave

    #31037
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    dave
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    Posts: 46

    Hi,

    Good info there. Have a slight leak under my L98 at the rear, will keep that info in mind when I check it out.

    Dave

    #30321
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    dave
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    When I did my Vk interior some of it needed touch up with cerulean and console I got was grey so had to completely do that. Got the cerulean paint code and took it down to local Paint Place and they mixed me up 500ml of acrylic  paint (which is apparently what was used originally). Gave it a test try and was not quite right so took an original piece of dash down there with the paint and they matched it up perfectly. Added a bit of flatener and I think bit more black and came out spot on.

    #29830
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    dave
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    O.k.

    Thanks for the info.

    #29828
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    dave
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    You will probably need the speed sensor as the ECU needs that input for tuning. You can delete the rear O2 sensors and get the tuner to disable them. They monitor the function of the cats. Not sure about NSW regs but if getting it engineered and rego with the LS you may need to leave them there.

    Dave

    #29827
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    dave
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    Am considering changing my fuel pump to an internal one. Currently have the external 044. Means I would probably be best fitting a VN tank and then can use the standard hanger with better pump. Can anyone tell me which model tanks fit in VK commodore. Assume VN & VP will but will VR & VS fit. Seems to be more of the latter available.

    Dave

    #29667
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    dave
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    Hi, Thanks for feedback. The return pipe is also 3/8. Have considered exhaust heat but lines are not near exhaust, have run them up the top of the gearbox tunnel to rear of engine. Did consider maybe the muffler at rear next to the tank was causing the heat transfer. As cava said would not have thought it would be excessive flow with one 044 pump, but maybe it is. I might try decreasing the flow to test if that is the issue. Have considered fitting a VN tank and running in tank pump. Anyway thanks again.

    #29171
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    dave
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    I see you having issues with header clearance. I cant quite see from pics but are you using a VL, VN, VP rack or a VH rack. The later steering racks are a lot smaller profile giving more room. Later racks wont bolt up to early K frame. Need to fit later K frame as well. You may already know this and have done it, but just in case.

    #27533
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    dave
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    Are you using the E38 controller or the earlier controller from LS1? I got gen 4 L98 in my VK. Used the E38 controller which fitted under the wiper plenum and all the fuses, circuit breakers and extra relays I fitted in the standard VK fuse box. Ended up quite tidy with everything out of the way.

    Dave

    #24237
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    dave
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    Be careful using the grease pressing method on LS engines. The crank is hollow and has a core plug in the end behind the spigot bearing and it can apparently be pushed in by the grease and then you will have an engine oil leak when you put it back together

    #23986
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    dave
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    Good to see a bit of progress. Should come up nice. I went with the tko box in my VK. Very happy with it. Seems as strong as. Little bit of gear noise, sounds good though. Also used VL borg warner diff with 31 spline axles and a true trac centre. Standard lsd did not last very long. Keep the posts forthcoming.

    #23160
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    dave
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    Good to to see you are getting a fair amount of progress on the car. You asked me about what i did regarding air box on my thread I had regarding cam and tune on L98. I posted a couple of pics on there of what I did. Just a reminder in case you didnt see it.

    #23054
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    dave
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    Yes same with mine for  engineering regulations, enclosed air box with a k&n filter in it. Made a filter setup on the front left side of the engine bay. Is separated from the engine bay and draws air around the headlight and past  the left side of the radiator thru the grill area. Used  100mm intake pipe and the filter is 100mm opening and about 180mm long. Was going to put some holes in under the filter for airflow from the inner wheel area but when had it dynoed he took the intake piping off to check for restriction and run it up with and without the air filter and no difference in manifold vacuum.

    Dave

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    #23044
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    dave
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    Thanks for your responses. The gearing seems o.k. The box is a tremec TKO 600 which has shorter 1st, 2nd and 3rd gearing than the 6 speed tremecs. I know the tuner had to set the fuel ratios a bit fat to get it reasonable. I think about 13:1 from memory. Maybe just needs bit more time spent on the tuning side of things. I was thinking it may be better with a mafless tune? Originally went with the tuning done with the maf sensor for engineering and licensing.

    Dave

    #22732
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    dave
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    Hi,

    Pretty sure that hole is there as a tell tale hole. If the diaphragm gets a hole in you get fuel coming out the hole. Should be sealed against oil getting in that far. Think there should be some sort of rubber seal arrangement near where it bolts to the block.

    #22590
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    dave
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    The charcoal canister I used suits a VN or VP I think. Has 3 pipes on. One from the engine purge valve, one from the tank vent and one goes to vent filter. I put the vent filter as high up as I could inside rear wheel arch attached to top of fuel filler tube.

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