HomeForumsMembers’ Builds and RidesVB – VC – VH – VK – VLHeron's VK SL Build – LS3, TH400, Sleeper Style

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  • #22363
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    I agree Gary they are nice but when some one does somthing more to there liking and not follow the leader , just little things like white paint and black trim instead of chrome or colour code the bumpers and mirrors ,you could still do white over sliver and the black trim just don’t do black paint with black wheels i don’t undersatnd that one , up to you your car ,this also can be about motors , NA,Forced, Nos Manual, auto anyway eaither way it will look good and go hard :-)  just thourght maybe a group three

    #22370
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Picked up the k frame and rack yesterday. Gotta clean the k frame cause it’s filthy. Also need to get new tie rod ends for the rack. Had a poke around the car today and noticed it needs new strut tops. Should I get a front end bush kit for it? There’s a Superpro front end rebuild kit on eBay for $510 that include strut tops and tie rod ends.

    Was thinking about a VT brake upgrade. From what I’ve seen, I need a VS booster, VT master cylinder, calipers, discs, hub adapters, and lines. Anything else? I should be able to get it all from a wrecker

    #22371
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Also grabbed the paint for the bay. That’s gonna be fun lol. Not much left in the bay to strip out, gonna try and get it ready for paint over the Easter long weekend.

    #22376
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Man you are moving along with this at a rate of knots, nice work.  I would highly recommend getting stuff like k frame etc powder coated satin black.  Tough as old boots and keeps looking mint.

    #22377
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
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    Man you are moving along with this at a rate of knots, nice work. I would highly recommend getting stuff like k frame etc powder coated satin black. Tough as old boots and keeps looking mint.

    was thinking about doing that. I think it needs new bushes, so I might pull the front end apart, get the bushes removed, powdercoat it all and put the new bushes in

    #22378
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    gtrboyy
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    Member since: January 20, 2016
    Posts: 201

    You won’t regret the ls3..extra torque they have over ls1 is worth it.

     

    Agree too many blue meanies replicas out there better to be lil’ different when already got white or silver car,actually like ss more but not so much the interior or 15″ aero wheel prices lol.

    #22380
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Stuck on what radiator to run. CAE can do one for $1k with thermos all ready to go, but it’s an aussie desert coolers one and there’s a lot of negative reviews around for them. I spoke to South Coast Radiators and they quoted $1500 for a sheet metal unit with thermos , or $1300 for a street version. I also spoke to a workshop thats done a couple of LS into VK conversions and they run the standard VK 308 radiator without any issues. Going that route will save some coin, so it’s difficult to decide.

    Can also get a brand new VK V8 radiator for $422, AU thermos for an extra $150 new.

    • This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by Profile photo of Heron SSV Heron SSV.
    #22382
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Posts: 5 777
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    Maybe just go the cheapest route, its no big deal if after its all built its not quite up to the task and you need to save up and swap the radiator over, its not like you are modifying anything to fit.  What I mean is its not like it won’t work at all, worse case on hot days, during burnouts or whatever the temp creeps up.

    #22383
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
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    Maybe just go the cheapest route, its no big deal if after its all built its not quite up to the task and you need to save up and swap the radiator over, its not like you are modifying anything to fit. What I mean is its not like it won’t work at all, worse case on hot days, during burnouts or whatever the temp creeps up.

    That’s an idea. I’ll do some hunting around to see if i can get a second hand one, if not I’ll get a new one. If it doesnt work, I’m sure I’d be able to sell it.

    On a side note, the motor has arrived :yahoo:

    Spoke to Paul at Paul Rogers to order the box and converter. He’s sending me a spec sheet for the converter so they can make it to suit my application. Gonna go for a fairly large cam, something like a Turbo Killer from GMM  or a VCM 13, up around the 23x 24x range so it’s nice and grumpy and goes like a scalded cat

    #22384
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
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    I’ll be selling the power steering pump and air con compressor off the motor if anyone is after one or the other.

    #22385
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    cava454
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    Posts: 2 390
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    In regards to the cam. Bigger isn’t always best mate.

     

    Maybe just go the cheapest route, its no big deal if after its all built its not quite up to the task and you need to save up and swap the radiator over, its not like you are modifying anything to fit. What I mean is its not like it won’t work at all, worse case on hot days, during burnouts or whatever the temp creeps up.

    That’s an idea. I’ll do some hunting around to see if i can get a second hand one, if not I’ll get a new one. If it doesnt work, I’m sure I’d be able to sell it. On a side note, the motor has arrived Spoke to Paul at Paul Rogers to order the box and converter. He’s sending me a spec sheet for the converter so they can make it to suit my application. Gonna go for a fairly large cam, something like a Turbo Killer from GMM or a VCM 13, up around the 23x 24x range so it’s nice and grumpy and goes like a scalded cat

    #22386
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
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    In regards to the cam. Bigger isn’t always best mate.

    I’ll keep that in mind when I’m ready to go, that part is a long way away at the moment haha.

    Got a quote for a new VK radiator, VS booster, VT master cylinder, VT discs, calipers, pads, lines etc. for just under a grand.

    I also called my local suspension place, a Pedders outlet, and they quoted $345 to supply and fit new bushes to the k frame and lower control arms. Not rubber ones, there was another type he mentioned, like Nolathane. It’ll definitely need it, but not sure what that cost is like, or whether I should buy the kit off eBay and find a mechanic with a press to swap them out

    #22387
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Posts: 5 777
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    If you are engineering this btw, you don’t want to have to pass an emissions test, valve overlap on the cam will kill you.  Stock cam first, so it gets approved without the test, get it passed, then cut loose with mods?

    #22388
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    Heron SSV
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    If you are engineering this btw, you don’t want to have to pass an emissions test, valve overlap on the cam will kill you. Stock cam first, so it gets approved without the test, get it passed, then cut loose with mods?

    thats the plan. It’ll basically be a stock LS3 plus intake, tune and exhaust, get it engineered and rego sorted and put some kms on it to get it all right.

    #22389
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    cava454
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    Get front and rear bush kit from AutoOne. I used all whiteline gear and done it all my self. It’s very simple to do mate. Front and rear cost me $510  inc new sway bars etc

    Can after engineering like said. But don’t just get the biggest angriest one.

    #22390
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    Heron SSV
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    Get front and rear bush kit from AutoOne. I used all whiteline gear and done it all my self. It’s very simple to do mate. Front and rear cost me $510 inc new sway bars etc Can after engineering like said. But don’t just get the biggest angriest one.

    theres a similar kit on eBay from super pro that includes strut tops that I need as well. How hard is it to get the bushes out? I thought you need a press to get the new ones in

    #22391
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Posts: 5 777
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    I used Superpro through mine, not sure there’s a huge amount of difference between the brands.

    #22392
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    Heron SSV
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    #22393
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    cava454
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    I brought a $200 press to do the job. Worked well. I also got some bushes as 2 piece so didn’t need to remove the kframe etc to press it in.

    That link is just the front end.

    • This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by Profile photo of cava454 cava454.
    #22395
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
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    I brought a $200 press to do the job. Worked well. I also got some bushes as 2 piece so didn’t need to remove the kframe etc to press it in. That link is just the front end.

    just looking at the front at the moment. Have to pull it all apart anyway, a mate has a press at his work and will help me put them in. Gonna get the front sorted and work my way through to the back once I get the motor and box in, no doubt the diff will need some work anyway so will look at options for the whole rear end

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