This topic contains 1,175 replies, has 48 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of cava454 cava454 2 years, 6 months ago.

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  • #12846
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Haha I know u Gary cohere very different. You over engineer, I go against the grain and wing a lot of shit LOL

    You were right about the pipes…. For now. The 9inch will be coming out and I’ll make some cuts and get them in. The trans mount is rock solid. Whilst it looks flimsy it’s not all that bad. Should hold dropping the brake @6k….I bloody hope anyways.

    Loom abd Ecu I’m not yet 100% sure on yet. I think FWB whilst will initially cost more up front, I’ll be better off in the long run. It should clear.

    Sump worked out mint. Close yes but it’s got at least 5-6mm clearance everywhere.

    Who said skids.  Don’t get me that excited.

    #12848
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Not sure I have ever been accused of going with the grain, and nothing wrong with winging it ha ha. And def nothing wrong with being different. 5mm is too close for the sump, no way engineer will approve that (an imo for good reason) 600hp under full load even with tuffs will move that easy. But its your car, its going to be killa.

    #12849
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    NickVR
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 264
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    Good to see the engine in it. It will be interesting to see if the engineer will pass the bonnet bracing cut out. Always thought that was a big no, no.

    #12853
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    Slow355
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 322

    Vn grp a had the reinforcing cut out so there must be a way, trick is to do things neat and not just hack things out and less likely to upset the engineer!

    Cav you could easily get a wedge adapter machined up to angle throttle down like I did on my manifold as throttles were straight out at first. I would just run the Trans mount and if it cracks then reengineer or reengineer later as more important shit to do at the moment. Looking good 👌

    munch munch ls1s for lunch
    Best 1/4 mile 13.1@105mph 60ft-1.8sec Reaction time .8 sec 0/100-4.8sec

    #12854
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Just thinking overnight Cav, any chance to lower the engine?  How close to the top of the K member is the bottom flat part of the sump?  You might be able to modify the engine mounts to drop it a little?  The other think is is the rear of the trans up high?  The higher it is the lower forward of the engine mounts are so it would lower the TB a bit too?  Just thinking if your only chasing a little.

    • This reply was modified 8 years, 3 months ago by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065.
    #12858
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Nah not gunna drop mounts etc. It goes against the winging it moto.

    I spoke to another mate. He has the same clearance as me and he uses the old CRS mounts which flex. His never had any issue. So I’ll let it be and monitor it after its all tuned. If it’s gunna move it will move on the dyno. I’m pretty confident the blower will fit under the Group A scoop. I’ll cut the reo and the actual bonnet so it exposed underneath the scoop. I’ll gain and extra 3inch by doing that over a stock bonnet with reo.

    As for the tb I’ll wait and see what Ecu I run. If I go cable it might be a smaller TB. IF I keep this one I might just do a wedge. I know someone with a CNC

    #12859
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Flip the TB it won’t hurt and looks like a square pattern flange  :XD:

    #12860
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    cava454
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    Yeah 4 bolt square. I’ll try flipping it

    #12861
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    Slow355
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
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    Isn’t it the manifold neck pushing it up tho?

    Need a hand with bonnet? Make sure u got a finger file to neaten everything up and use the ultra thin grinder blades

    munch munch ls1s for lunch
    Best 1/4 mile 13.1@105mph 60ft-1.8sec Reaction time .8 sec 0/100-4.8sec

    #12862
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    If you want to help u can. It’s getting painted so I can be a bit ruff

    #12864
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Isn’t it the manifold neck pushing it up tho? Need a hand with bonnet? Make sure u got a finger file to neaten everything up and use the ultra thin grinder blades

    Yeah but the motor on the DBW TB is the highest point, he might get away with just flipping it, not really sure what they were thinking with the up angle on the intake…

    #12872
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    cava454
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    Ok quickly flipped TB. Gives me more room


    This is why I love Ls. So easy to work with

    #12873
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Better  ;-)

    #12881
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    cava454
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    How you guys run your rad hoses. Is it the t/stat hose to top or bottom of rad?

    What ya do with the 2 steam ports?

    #12883
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    T Stat to the Bottom, Steam ports go into my VZ Radiator..

    #12885
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Posts: 5 777
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    Same my PWR has steam port tube in rad.  Have read you can tap it into the lower pressure side of the water pump though although have also read its ideally supposed to be higher than steam port on head to work properly but I am probably over thinking it ;-)

    #12886
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    cava454
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    I’ll speak to pwr when they do my heat exchanger see if they can weld me a bung to sweeten the deal. If not I’ll cut it into the top hose

    #12888
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
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    Might be worth measuring the size of the pipe on the steam port on the engine and get them to make fitting same size on radiator.  On mine for some reason PWR made theirs much larger, was a bit of a prick as hose to fit rad was way too large for steam fitting, ended up silver soldering an adapter on but was messing around you don’t need.  Not sure if that’s any help at all? It was just something I came across.

     

    • This reply was modified 8 years, 3 months ago by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065.
    #12891
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Factory hose has a bulged end at the radiator Gary.

    #12892
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    cava454
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    The hose is tiny. Same size as the heater vac lines

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