AWD-T3-VR Lexcen

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

cava454 wrote:

That thing sure will boogie that’s for sure. Whats sort of gauges you going to run in this car? Autometer or something like a motel dash?

i ask because if it’s like an autometer where u need to instal a sender. Machine ur self up a tee piece and run it from the factory location at the back of the inlet manifold. That will give u the most accurate readings.

Yep I think it’s going to be a bunch of fun!

I have a spare VZ Cluster there, I’ll probably end up running another Scan Gage in this one for the extras, there’s enough failsafes in the E38 ECM that I can set it up for self preservation, there’s not a lot of time to monitor gauges in Autocross.

I ran 25K of MoTeC gear in one of my other cars but am trying to keep this thing fairly low budget by comparison, hence the full VZ Electrics package going in.

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

cheap is good lol o

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

cava454 wrote:

cheap is good lol o

LOL Cheap is great but I guess it’s a relative thing when building something like this!

I was lucky to have the entire drivetrain already built and running in the Tonner or this project probably would never have happened..

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

…

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

True that’s a massive bonus. Either way this thing will hammer. I’m surprised your going auto?? Wouldn’t a t56 be much better?

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

^thats one of the new Sonnax billet input drums with the bolt on supporting ring isn’t it? They weren’t out when I built mine but Greg Nader at Sonnax who i got to know said they were working on something like it. very nice bit of kit.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

cava454 wrote:

True that’s a massive bonus. Either way this thing will hammer. I’m surprised your going auto?? Wouldn’t a t56 be much better?

I’d thought about a Manual but given I’m not that great a peddler and the nature of the tracks being a bit rough I decided to stick with the Auto, It’s shift kitted and I do all my own tuning so it’s no drama to make it behave exactly how I like, coupled to the B&M Ratchet shifter it “should” be as good as the manual with one less pedal.

 

VRSenator065 wrote:

^thats one of the new Sonnax billet input drums with the bolt on supporting ring isn’t it? They weren’t out when I built mine but Greg Nader at Sonnax who i got to know said they were working on something like it. very nice bit of kit.

Yeah it is Gary, the AWD system puts a bit of load on the 60’s I killed mine 9 times before I came up with a Combo that works, I’m currently using a Z Pack 3/4 set for all my 60 builds and it’s holding up nicely.

I traced quite a few of the failures to the Programming, if you have the shifter in D and kick it down to 2nd under load say goodbye to the 3/4 Clutches… Shifter in 3rd and it’s fine as the valve body must exhaust the 3/4 piston better that way.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Imho 90% of longevity of a 4L60/65 is about the tune. Or more importantly the tuner understanding (and accepting) the requirements of the hardware. Problem is for most of us there is a disconnect between the tuner and the auto builder = trouble…

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Imho 90% of longevity of a 4L60/65 is about the tune. Or more importantly the tuner understanding (and accepting) the requirements of the hardware. Problem is for most of us there is a disconnect between the tuner and the auto builder = trouble…

LOL even if they’re one in the same person can still = trouble…. 9 times!

Got there in the end though and now have a combination that works well, what’s the end use for your car going to be that a Glide is the best option?

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

My cars sort of going to be like painting the Sydney harbor bridge, once you finish you go back and start over…

Seriously, I have tried to build the basics of a real life all rounder. I want to mainly just street drive it, also be able to do a club day or whatever at Mallala, maybe hill climb it, and do some street drags. Ideally a manual will end up in it, but my almost life goal car wise has been to run a 10.XX in a car I built myself. Given its auto currently, building a tough glide suits the drag and street requirements. If I were to change to manual not its not just the box, its the clutch, the pedals bla bla. But when I get bored with the auto, and most likely once the Kombi is done, I will fit some sort of sequential manual, and then do more circuit type stuff, really its going to need a cage then anyway. My thought process was there will always be a market for a quality 1500HP glide, so when it comes time to go manual I should be able to move it on. Sorry i don’t ever tend to give short answers

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  VRSenator065.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  VRSenator065.

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Anonymous wrote:

cava454 wrote:

True that’s a massive bonus. Either way this thing will hammer. I’m surprised your going auto?? Wouldn’t a t56 be much better?

I’d thought about a Manual but given I’m not that great a peddler and the nature of the tracks being a bit rough I decided to stick with the Auto, It’s shift kitted and I do all my own tuning so it’s no drama to make it behave exactly how I like, coupled to the B&M Ratchet shifter it “should” be as good as the manual with one less pedal.

VRSenator065 wrote:

^thats one of the new Sonnax billet input drums with the bolt on supporting ring isn’t it? They weren’t out when I built mine but Greg Nader at Sonnax who i got to know said they were working on something like it. very nice bit of kit.

Yeah it is Gary, the AWD system puts a bit of load on the 60’s I killed mine 9 times before I came up with a Combo that works, I’m currently using a Z Pack 3/4 set for all my 60 builds and it’s holding up nicely. I traced quite a few of the failures to the Programming, if you have the shifter in D and kick it down to 2nd under load say goodbye to the 3/4 Clutches… Shifter in 3rd and it’s fine as the valve body must exhaust the 3/4 piston better that way.

 

why not go full manual valve body?

The guys who did my auto despise ppl that play with them in the tune. If you want an auto to shift correctly or a particular way do it mechanically. Not via a tune.

 

Seen a lot of fresh boxes bite the dust cause of a tweak of the tune.

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  cava454.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

I think we are talking more about controlling line pressures, shift delays etc, not the fully auto shift.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Cava: It’s got a shift kit and a bunch of other internal mods to make it work correctly, I was talking more shift points and programming it so it can work either as an Auto or a manual on the shifter,  other people will drive this and I’d prefer they just put it in D then stab and steer..

 

 

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Oh ok. Never heard of that. Woukd have thought a manual valve body be much better and easier.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

cava454 wrote:

Oh ok. Never heard of that. Woukd have thought a manual valve body be much better and easier.

Yes way easier but then you totally lose being able to drive it as an Auto, in mine I’ll set it up so the PWR switch is Manual control and Auto, I’ll also load a soft engine map for when other people drive it, even on the soft map it hammers.

 

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

^ just add a couple of Varex mufflers, link the open/close of them to the button, not only do you have a tame safe tune with revised shift points in the auto but its also in nice quiet stealth mode

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

VRSenator065 wrote:

^ just add a couple of Varex mufflers, link the open/close of them to the button, not only do you have a tame safe tune with revised shift points in the auto but its also in nice quiet stealth mode

LOL you’re forgetting it’s a Track Car!!

Collected my Aluminium, paint and some hose yesterday in Melbourne, won’t get into to it till next week now..

CBF’d day here

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Made a start on the Air Scoops for the rear 1/4 windows, got the outside frames down and will fold up and fab the scoops tomorrow.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

What are the sccops for, are you rear mounting coolers?

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

VRSenator065 wrote:

What are the sccops for, are you rear mounting coolers?

Yep IC Exchanger and BIG Trans cooler will be back there to remove some of the thermal load and weight off the front.

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One down one to go!

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