SV5000 – 383 Stroker

[KroozerParticipant Forbes, NSW91 VN SS View build HERE Member since: February 19, 2015 Posts: 336]

I wanna see you do it! 

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Tony will do it with ease. His done it plenty times before.  However allow the better part of 15k and then some. He will do it with his CAST heads and a nice HYD roller. Will be strictly e85 with over 13.5:1  Id assume, going off some other stuff I’ve seen him build.

600hp will need a twin plate clutch. Personally stalled auto is your friend when ur talking this sort of HP

 

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  cava454.

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Show me a holden engine that’s made 600hp with a hydrolic cam and cast heads on e85

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

vs manta 218 wrote:

Show me a holden engine that’s made 600hp with a hydrolic cam and cast heads on e85

 

my post should read

Nice MECH roller not HYD roller. My bad

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Yeah it really is solid cam territory

Cast heads and solid cam can do it but im sure even cava will agree if you want this power its a smart idea to use come 600 series heads as well

Some will do it with cast to prove a point but a smart engine builder making the best combo to work in harmony with each part will strongly suggest 600 series heads after about 530 hp and this same level is when custom 1 7/8 pipes or 2 inch pipes are also needed as they dont make any

Anything after 450 hp will not be friendly any more even this will be cranky, its been around for 40 years and this has been proved time and time again

This is why COME make the engine you have to be a friendly combernation to use all day every day and every combernation you step up in power you loose more lower rpm and loose morr street drive ability

 

By the time you get to 600 hp you have a out right drag engine that will need a 5000rpm stall for a drag run or it will not be on the cams power range and this is in no way street usable day in day out

 

If 600hp street friendly engine could be done then both come and pavtek would build them and they would call it a street strip engine and not a pure race engine

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

For the second time, its a toy. Doesn’t need to be usable day in day out. When I said all day every day I meant no bullshit throw it on any dyno and it will make 400rwhp+ and run the mph at the strip to back it up.

I only really want 400rwhp which through a manual is somewhere just north of 500hp at the motor? I don’t need to go all out and budget will restrict that. Just because it can be done doesn’t necessarily mean I am going to spend the dollars to do it.

 

From TK

 

“If you go E85 we can do 600hp

Can be done on pump 98 as well, but will require not so street friendly setup (ie solid roller cam).
I did a 355 a short while ago that went damn close on 600hp on pump 98, had a solid roller in it.

Plan at this stage is to pull it apart & see what we’ve got to work with & then go from there.

I’m doing a street/strip 383 at the moment that’ll go close on 600 on E85 with a hyd roller & will be 100% streetable. “

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Dont be fooled that big stall can’t be driven on the street with nice manners. I have 0 issues with my 5200.

 

Cast heads can make that power esp with e85 fuel. Come in cheaper then alloys most likely. However if you were to go alloy id be going -9. They are far superior to anything come make.

Todd Foley drive his 620HP 383 on the street. His even gone as far as driving from Geelong to Heathcote busting out a 9 and then crusing home.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=569327653177782&id=403409123102970

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  cava454.
• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  cava454.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Awesome car that thing!!

I wont go auto mate. I honestly would not have bought this car if it was auto. I like manuals, call it being a glutton for punishment or whatever but I just don’t like autos.

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

If your 100% keen on a new motor. I know of a LEGIT 550HP 355 for sale. MCEComp built the motor. (Refer to link above and current STREET MACHINE mag).

 

Its a a no shit big dollar motor. Has TTB on it also. His lookin to sell. It’s only done dyno time

Maybe u could sell ur current motor complet and buy his??? Will be FAR cheaper then building.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Nah its the original block in mine full matching numbers want to keep it that way. Thanks for the heads up though.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

When alls said and done it will be a killa car when its done mate, will have the hp to back up the looks.  Keep us posted

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Yeah will be good to see it come along and either way you have good engine builders your dealing with so will be good

Dont think i was having a go or anything, i just wanted to make sure you know whats involved in making power and not be miss lead to mad numbers coming so easly from N/A holden engines

Manulas great to, keep it, i have 600 rwhp in a blowen 355 with  t56 with 4:11 gears and its great fun

[hsv865Participant St ClairVS Senator View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 91]

like your style manta

keep the matching numbers dude,in that car especially.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Good thread.  Manta, what is the definition of street friendly?

FLI 355’s engine builder is pretty good at what he does.  This is not about bragging, it’s to back up FLI 355 here.  My Holden V8 has a big SR cam, high compression etc.  FLI 355 has said $ is not an issue, which is what stops people doing this to a Holden V8.

Will need 4 bolt mains, there will be no issue with conrods etc. TK knows the recipe.  They can be made to be reliable and streetable.  Mine went 630hp on PULP and drove fine.  Set the rest of the combo up to match and there is no issue.  Mine idles at 1000rpm, does not overheat, drives great.  But, mine is through an Auto.

Todds is the same.  His shits all over mine down the 1/4, as he stayed with a non 9″ diff.

I’m in the process of going bigger cam, going higher comp and E85.  Go for it FLI 355!!! Just keep this thread updated.

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

100%?Street friendly is something you could deal with every day in all traffic conditions on 40 degree days and not worrie about it in the slightest way and not get pulled over and if you do the cops don’t blink a eye at it and defected it because of it’s noise or illegal stuff

could jump in after 2000km of no service and happily drive from QLD to VIC and go to drags and turn around and go back then do a service so some day soon when you get around to it

like  what he has right now

Who would agree something similar along these lines is 100% street friendly ?

 

 

i would say something that requires regular spark plug changes, your peaking out about doin a oil changes after 2-3k km and contemplate sticking it on a trailer to go inter state or 400km away is a street machine that can be driven on the road but is not 100% street friendly it’s just street usable and iffy if the cops pull you over

dont get me wrong here I’m not doubting 600hp can be done , I know it can, iv seen it heaps of times and have friends with them but my point was he was told could build a 600hp engine to be 100% street friendly and with hydrolic cam

what are your honest thoughts on that ????

 

 

all iv said is it’s requires big solid roller  cam, loud engines ,bigger then off the shelve pipes, in a vn-vs  usually 7500 rpm and alloy heads are a great idea at level of either COME or like cava said dash-9  and it’s not 100% street friendly like he would have now it’s is street user able but defects are always a Radom breath test away

Please dont think I’m trying to deter him or anything, please do build a monster engine for this,  like he says it’s not his daily it’s toy and as always  I support him 100% and would like to follow his build <span style=”background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);”>To </span>

look at my thread I’m the last person to say don’t build a rediculious  engine

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Shoutout to nevco trailers. You would not believe how good these things are

 

 

Plus blake had to move his (this was in the peak of the Sydney storms)  the cunt decided to hide in his engine bay out of the rain whilst I got drenched strapping it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MarzellaParticipant MarzellaVS SS View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 59]

vs manta 218 wrote:

100%?Street friendly is something you could deal with every day in all traffic conditions on 40 degree days and not worrie about it in the slightest way and not get pulled over and if you do the cops don’t blink a eye at it and defected it because of it’s noise or illegal stuff could jump in after 2000km of no service and happily drive from QLD to VIC and go to drags and turn around and go back then do a service so some day soon when you get around to it

I think your describing a Toyota Camry.

Who would even want a car like that.  I want to get in my car and enjoy the thrill of it not putt around like a pensioner it’s the entire and only reason I’m into cars.  I think your taking the streetable thing slightly out of context.

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Street friendly is something you could deal with every day in all traffic conditions on 40 degree days and not worrie about it in the slightest way and not get pulled over and if you do the cops don’t blink a eye at it and defected it because of it’s noise or illegal stuff
could jump in after 2000km of no service and happily drive from QLD to VIC and go to drags and turn around and go back then do a service so some day soon when you get around to it

like  what he has right now Who would agree something similar along these lines is 100% street friendly ? i would say something that requires regular spark plug changes, your peaking out about doin a oil changes after 2-3k km and contemplate sticking it on a trailer to go inter state or 400km away is a street machine that can be driven on the road but is not 100% street friendly it’s just street usable and iffy if the cops pull you over dont get me wrong here I’m not doubting 600hp can be done , I know it can, iv seen it heaps of times and have friends with them but my point was he was told could build a 600hp engine to be 100% street friendly and with hydrolic cam
what are your honest thoughts on that ????
all iv said is it’s requires big solid roller  cam, loud engines ,bigger then off the shelve pipes, in a vn-vs  usually 7500 rpm and alloy heads are a great idea at level of either COME or like cava said dash-9  and it’s not 100% street friendly like he would have now it’s is street user able but defects are always a Radom breath test away
Please dont think I’m trying to deter him or anything, please do build a monster engine for this,  like he says it’s not his daily it’s toy and as always  I support him 100% and would like to follow his build look at my thread I’m the last person to say don’t build a rediculious  engine

Nah mate, I totally see where you’re coming from. That’s what these forums are all about.  Love it.  Bare in mind I write this dribble based on my experience running an engine similar to what FLI355 wants to build and these are only my opinions Pete .  Take with a grain of salt.
Firstly, any over zealous copper can canary any car.  Ours, (including yours) are just more susceptible.  I wouldn’t drive my old VC Commodore on a 40 deg day, only because thermos heat the cabin up to 50+ deg.  But I have done it in the past to do C4C.  Obviously, with this power, the standard block needs strengthening, like reinforcing water jackets to compensate taking out material to accomodate the larger stroker kits.  So the block gets grouted and cooling system suffers.  However, there are mobs that now build good cooling systems, coupled with good thermos etc.  I can drive mine at 40deg days, I just cook my nuts off.  The engine doesn’t over heat.  Plus E85 burns much cooler to keep temps down.  With an engine like this, I think you also want an ASR sump or similar to get alot of oil capacity in to assist with engine temps.
As for service longevity, anyone running E85, whether it be a 400hp or 600+ hp engine NEEDS to do regular oil changes.  Even with additives, it is harsh on oil.  But there is certainly no issue with the coupla hundred kay round trip.  I do it regularly, as does Todd.  But that again comes back to an E85 issue and availabilty of same, a would be problem also encountered by the old  400hp comparison engine.
Get the right plug, and interval changes should be as what you would expect with that 400hp engine, I think plug life span comes down to ignition system.  The programable MSD and HVC coils put out a rediculous spark hit, that will wear any plug.  Plus ideally a start retard box for cranking.

Yeah big SR cams.. Point conceded here.  However, most lads on these and similar sites know how to check valve clearance / valve train.  I would imagine the guys running boost would periodically check also?  I ran the off the shelf Pacemaker 1″ 3/4 tri y jobs.  I got no room for 4 – 1, but still hit 630hp on PULP, which was only a tad over 12:1 comp.  Yeah, good heads are a must.  But FLI 355 is willing to park out the cash.  I don’t think that has an impact on street manners however.  I used a COME single plane, all of which was compact enough to not have to cut a hole in the bonnet.  (thats changed though recently)
Boosted engines have advantages over NA.  But also have their disadvantages.  As I said earlier, provided the right components are used that compliment each other, the 600hp N/A engine is very streetable.  I just don’t think you can compare to Gary’s large cube engine, or your supercharged combo.  But I can attest to this, mine (and I’m sure FLI 355 pending project) handle the street just fine.  (not 100% by all means, but that wasn’t the original point of contention)
Would like to hear from Todd on this, might send the link and see if he can chime in.

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  Narva*2010.

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Not describing a camery more a cammed ls1,2 or 3 or a LSA with basic mods or any engine with basic mods, even the engine he has right now is 100% streetable, or a bolt on wripple blowen LS engine or even a blower just bolted on a basic 304 all meet them regulations

a 600hp N/A holden engine I’ll let use decide that your selfs how 100% street friendly it is

i think we (I)  should stop hijacking fli355 thread I’m sure everyone knows what I mean and what narva 2010 and other mean by our personal experiences in our cars and others we personally known that have these sorts of engines

He said earlier he is after a nice 400rwhp engine and that level I do believe Tony knight could build that with hydrolic cam and e85 not a problem, personally i would use alloy heads to as that will make it easier to do and will be nice to drive as his toy

 

either way way it’s a beautiful car and sounds like nice stuff comin for it

[Narva*2010Participant Narva*2010VC Commodore View build HERE Member since: March 5, 2015 Posts: 87]

Agreed.  Get it done FLI 355. You won’t regret it and you’ve got a car thats definately worthy of this engine.

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