This topic contains 1,534 replies, has 19 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of cava454 cava454 3 years, 2 months ago.

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  • #28425
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    hey Ian did you run the front shaft though the sump in the lexcen but changing it on the BMW

    #28426
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    That’s it Frazer, in the Lexcen everything was comprised by using the Adventra sump and diff placement..

    #28427
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    wow so this makes it a lot easier and harder but once done will be a weapon B-)

    #28428
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Just means it’ll handle this time, it had horrific roll centres in the Lexcen so you couldn’t drive it through a corner..

    That along with the far better weight distribution should transform the way it drives..

    At least that’s the plan  :good:

    #28430
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Another day another issue that needs sorting, I need to make a crossmember so I can make a trans mount..

    But there’s no structure back where it needs to be, most modern cars only run the chassis rails back to under the driver’s seat then there’s only the sills supporting the rear half of the car..

    As I had to cut into the sill boxes for the cage I decided I needed to make some connectors, ideal size would have been 50x 50 box but in the 1.6mm wall I’m using this time it’s not exactly stiff..

    Thought about doubling up some 50x 25 as that gives a 3.2mm thick vertical in the middle but as I’m trying NOT to build a tank this time I used a length of 50x 25 and a 25x 25 welded into a T.

    I used some 75x 3mm plate with a 50x 25 to tie it all into the rear torque box then built the rails forward into the original rails, now I can add as many cross braces as I need.

    #28431
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Today’s brain teaser..

    Normally the uni joint in the front shaft at the transfer case end is right in line with the crossmember mount location..

    This was a total pita in the Lexcen and I ended up machining the bolt heads down to make it work, I did a heap of measuring mocked it all up a few times gave up and wandered off to get some lunch..

    The front diff angle has to match the output shaft on the transfer case angle, 99% impossible to get perfect due to the steering and engine being in the way..

    Had a thought, went down and reworked the rack jig to drop the rack down 16mm, this lets me drop the diff 10mm and made all the difference, also found if I delete the rubber bellows on the front shaft I can bottom it in the transfer case!

    This in turn moves the uni rearwards and frees up room for a crossmember and mount!

    #28435
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Coming together, nicelly mate.

    #28437
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Thanks Gary, slowly but surely  ;-)

    —————————–

    And the crossmember is done, I don’t imagine it’s going to fail at Destroyer spec (lighter than a Battleship but still sturdy

    #28438
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Dropped the drivetrain out so I could finish up the welding, quick tidy up then blew some primer on it, that’s enough for today I need some planning time for the next bit.

    #28439
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    My Astra power steering pump is back from it’s South Australian holiday, thanks Gary and the lovely Sue!

    #28440
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    I am sorry to admit the only time it came out of the box was the day I got it, then it just sat there on the “one day” list…  Good its back to a new home and some use.  Really coming together IJ, looks like you have learnt tons off the Lexcan in what to do and what not to do.  Shotgun a ride when you come over to Collingrove!

    #28441
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    LOL I’d be disappointed if you didn’t jump in for a ride! LOL that pump did the same here for many years it was originally bought for another project car we were working on and didn’t happen..

    Yep the Lexcen was a massive learning experience, going in I’m happy to admit I had NFI what was required but after 3 years I have a firm grasp of what works and what doesn’t, still heaps to do but most of the mind disabling stuff is sorted!

    Today’s job, weld in the M3 chassis reinforcement bits, the fronts to my understanding are more load distribution plates than doublers as you just bolt them in with the struts..

    CBF’d chasing extra bits when I’m doing shock changes so 3 plug welds in each and they’re good, 1 of my least favourite jobs is welding upside down under cars even worse when they’re galvanized.

    #28442
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    They certainly design it on the edge strength wise, I guess it keeps it light.

    #28443
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Serious tin can..bit disappointed.

    #28444
    Profile photo of Immortality
    Immortality
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    Member since: August 31, 2015
    Posts: 535

    Built just strong enough to handle the weight and power it was designed for and no more.  I don’t think there would be many family type sedans on the market even today to handle the power/torque you intend to put through that chassis.

    #28445
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Yeah sort of knew that in the back of my mind, just expected more I guess, in their favour at least they made the reinforcement parts available.

    Spent the day in Melbourne chasing up materials and consumables needed for the next phase, still have to hit Bendigo tomorrow for more..

    #28446
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Went to Bendigo today in search of Steel, it was a success!

    #28447
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Seeing as a uni end for 50mm 3mm wall tube doesn’t exist in the known World I had to machine up a reducer from the 2.25″ that I have to the 50mm tube..

    I have a huge chunk of hollow bar there that saves a heap of time as it has a 38mm hole, of course on the very last operation I went a bit too hard with the parting off tool it caught, pulled it out of the chuck destroying the part.. DOH

    Take #2, all good, the other end was easier as it’s a solid shaft so just turned it down to fit the tube, that’s enough for today.

    #28454
    Profile photo of sands vs
    sands vs
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    Member since: March 1, 2015
    Posts: 619

    Wish I had a laithe would make life so much easier. Nice work mate.

     

    So is the vr a lot more strudy in the body?

    #28456
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Wish I had a laithe would make life so much easier. Nice work mate. So is the vr a lot more strudy in the body?

    Love my Lathe, nah they’re much of a muchness, where the VR wins though is Holden used a lot of doublers in critical places, BMW didn’t hence they fail if you add power…

    ————————————————-

    Problem, you need to cut big precise holes in 5mm plate, the plates are huge and both holes are different sizes.. too big to swing in the Lathe and CBF’d setting up the CNC for 2 holes..

    Solution, if you were a semi bright kid 32 years ago you dropped the extra coin for a Lathe with a gap bed, cool can swing the big plate now, still CBF’d swapping a face plate onto the machine..

    Solution 2, buy some pipe with a bigger ID than the big hole cut a couple of slices and tack weld it in the centre of each plate, cut out the bulk with hole saws then bore to the exact size, cut the tacks and sand the welds off!

    Plates will get cut down to the bare minimum but this should give an idea of the concept..

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