VS Manta #218

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Yeah it looks like a nice piece of gear

 

always wanted sequential manual set up

 

its still stock box so not dog box to do flat changes but that’s ok as if box ever packs it in it’s still a relatively spcheap fix

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Watching with interest…..

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

They look like a good piece of gear. Wouldn’t be cheap tho.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

I reckon I would want to actually drive one before I committed the cash, just to see how it actually “feels”.  Does look like a great bit of kit though.

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Comin in at something like $2500 it’s not really cheap

But building a blowen stroked 355 wasn’t cheap either, only live once

http://youtu.be/gO-ScsLXPoE

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

It really is just wank factor but I like it, very fap worthy

 

also it’s Aussie made

 

http://youtu.be/wCB3IOUuvmY

• This reply was modified 8 years, 7 months ago by  vs manta 218.

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

That’s definitely interesting.  I’ll take a manual box any day of the week

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Yeah I’m a manual person as well, I’m well aware a correctly stalled auto is quicker on a drag strip when In a low 11 second car or faster but I figgered 99% of the time myn will be on the streets or a cruise or something so manual it is for me

 

must admite been passenger in a quick manual car is much more hair raising then been passenger in a auto

[moodybluebobParticipant View build HERE Member since: March 4, 2015 Posts: 44]

I can agree with that! went passenger in a mates VX clubby at powercruise. 408 turbo pushing 750 on run in. 6 speed dog box. Makes it way more fun chopping people grabbing gears haha.

Would love to see this car in the flesh one day

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

I’m back

 

so since last tune car was goin great then out of no where it just started shutting down above 5000rpm and feeling really doowie and would not start once hot unless I jumped it

Start checking things out and noticed I only had 11.8v and max of 12.3v at high rpm usually a little less

 

got a 120 amp alternator hooked it up and same thing, still low voltage, so I got a amp metre and bam it was sucking down 55amps at idle and 3000rpm it was pumping out 100amps and still at 12.4 or so V

 

so I though screw this and found a Merican company that make alternators to your specs so I got a cs130 case, 200amp single wire capable of doin 120 amps at idle and requires a minimum of gauge 4 wire fitted to it

 

fitted it and noticed I had to grind off 180 thou from its mounting point so done that and got the belt perfectly aligned, fired it up just to see with my old wire and bam still had 11.8v idle and mid 12 at rpm

 

so because Iv been working 8 days a week I got my old boy to go into battery world and get few metres of gauge 4 wire, been a electrician I though he would nail this, anyway he told the bright spark behind the counter that wire he has is to big for 4 gauge but after he insisted it was 4G he got it and it’s actually 00 gauge same as my main battery cable so it was difficult to run the wire fowards and behind the gaurd and to my mounting block under dash where the 00 battery cable was, at the same time I replaced a few earth cables and the power cable to my fuse box for fuel pumps and thermo fans my car now consist of more copper them steel

Fired it up and 13.5 V at idle and 14.3 at rpm, not sure if that’s to much but anyway I’m not shy of volts now and has fixed all my issues and running sweet as again

 

so hopefully next week we do another street tune, we are making a series cable to hook my zietronix wide band into my EFI live so I can data log and then we hit the dyno and start feeding in some more timing as it’s still only running 11 degrees with over 400rwkw

 

looking at 17-18 degrees and see what it does and I also have a slightly smaller pullie if I want to jam a bit more boost in it next winter

 

other things Iv done is I drilled 2 rows of 2mm holes in every grove in the blower pullie about 5mm deep and the belt whistle is near silent now

[cookieParticipant black vx ss View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 31]

problem sounds familliar, but now it’s fixed does it feel like a new car again or is it still a bit doughy?

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Feels good as now, not doughy anymore

 

i didn’t mention that it would be ok in day time but night time was worse when lights where on

 

ever item I turned I could see volts drop more, lights, thermo fans, on and use a electric window and it would be at 11.0V sometimes into the 10.9v

 

 

also found my main earth wire was loose as when fitting new power cables as well

 

MSD ingition absolutely hates low voltage, that’s why it wouldn’t start, would turn over and give a half assed fire but not start, hook jumper leads up and turn over bit faster and started straight away, drive off and it was really doughy and just wanted to break down under heavy throttle up top end

 

felt like spark problem

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

14.3 volts is fine, most alternators are rated at 14.4 volts in our era cars.  Some of the newer cars run at a higher voltage I believe.

I had the same issue with my 308, low voltage  at idle and batteries going flat even though I seemed to have good voltage at the alternator output post.  Good cables really are a must when you have lots of electrical loads.

Good to hear it’s sorted.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Very interesting Pete, I actually think that’s what the issue is/was with mine.  With me I had left the fuel pump at max for when they had done the power run, I think that was what tipped the current draw over the edge.  But now I have readjusted it back down and the voltage issue seems to have sorted itself and its starting better as well.  Might have to look into an alternator like yours I reckon.  Thanks for the write up

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

EFI really doesn’t like to much voltage fluctuation either, it effects the injector DC.  There are compensation tables in the tunes but they are really only suited to the factory injectors.  Once you start changing injectors and lots of other variables things can get interesting.

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Yes because volts have changed a lot is the main reason to do some street tuning first

 

can make a car drive nice by street tuning so much better then on a dyno exspecially with myn That wants to be a savage

 

hopefully me and leppy go for a drive next Monday or Tuesday and after that I’m sorting some tyres for some of my 18 inch rims before some serious power runs on the dyno ready for some mph runs down the strip Next year

 

My prediction is right now with 11 degrees and 6800rpm it’s got 425-430rwkw as last time on the 20 inch rims it just spun them after 5900rpm at 400rwkw and when we bump up the timing maybe about 470-480 rwkw witch will be very very nice for a 355 on 13 psi

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Very interesting Pete, I actually think that’s what the issue is/was with mine. With me I had left the fuel pump at max for when they had done the power run, I think that was what tipped the current draw over the edge. But now I have readjusted it back down and the voltage issue seems to have sorted itself and its starting better as well. Might have to look into an alternator like yours I reckon. Thanks for the write up

 

only just seen you had replied Gary

 

yeah it very well could be a problem, fuel pumps take massive power supply along with everything else you very quickly add up to 80 amps

 

if you can find a end of your alternator wire where you can get verniers (don’t know how to spell it but the tool that measures in thou) and see what size the core of the wire is and match it to see what gauge it is

 

if it’s gauge 7 or smaller, so gauge 8 then definetly a problem, if it’s gauge 6 then you will be on the limits and gauge 5 or 4 is good

 

gauge 6 is what most will hand you over the counter but the problem is this is all good with a battery in the engine bay with 800mm of wire, but me and you have 2.5M at least till it gets to the big battery wire

 

i think from memory you have a gauge 0 or 00 from battery to under your dash somewhere like I do then it goes in wheel well to starter and on to alternator

[benkParticipant Sydney View build HERE Member since: August 23, 2015 Posts: 85]

vs manta 218 wrote:

 other things Iv done is I drilled 2 rows of 2mm holes in every grove in the blower pullie about 5mm deep and the belt whistle is near silent now

 

do you have any pics of this mod?

[vs manta 218Participant Vs hsv manta View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 796]

Only this crappy one of when I drilled the first row, Iv machined my 60mm pullie down to about 53mm, so each row is about 17mm from out sides and 17mm between them give or take a bees dick

 

when end I put this on FB the first response was why would you want to make it quitter, I couldn’t face palm my self hard enough,

 

not every one gets a fat over a gilma whine lol

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Would make much more difference if they went right through, the noise is just trapped air between the pully and the belt, think armpit farts..  :XD:

I run a gatorback belt on mine and it reduced the noise totally.

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