VR v2.0

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Not rubber mounted at all?

 

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

I’ve got rubber on the bottom tabs. I ran out of bits for the top. It’s gotta come apart at some point so I’ll add them then

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

I use rubber isolator mounts, they have an M6 stud on either side and look like mini engine mounts, for larger things you can get them with M8 studs.

You need to do a stray current check in both exchangers as it’ll kill your pretty new parts in weeks if present… 

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Yep agree with that, if the electrical circuit isn’t right will kill an expensive bit of kit in weeks needlessly.

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Anonymous wrote:

I use rubber isolator mounts, they have an M6 stud on either side and look like mini engine mounts, for larger things you can get them with M8 studs. You need to do a stray current check in both exchangers as it’ll kill your pretty new parts in weeks if present…

Any photos of said mounts?

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

 

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Ahh yeah I get ya. I’ll get some snaps on how I did it later. Tell me what you think.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Cav there is a good explanation of how to do the electrical stray current check and why I think on the PWR website, its simple but bloody important and could save you big $$.  Have a look, if you cant find it i reckon I have it at work saved on my computer.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Just found it http://www.pwr.com.au/wp-content/uploads/PWR-Notice-to-Owners.pdf

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

One very important point on testing for stray current you can’t use a Digital MultiMeter it has to be an analog type with a Needle the Digi won’t read correctly.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Anonymous wrote:

One very important point on testing for stray current you can’t use a Digital MultiMeter it has to be an analog type with a Needle the Digi won’t read correctly.

Didn’t know that, you sure if its a quality Fluke?  Thats what i used, no issues, but maybe that was luck

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Yep 100% sure Gary, something about the way the Digi’s load up, I ended up driving to Ballarat as it was the only place I could find an analog one in stock…

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

An analog meter would be a rear beast these days.

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Yeah I’ve got the instructions on testing current.

Trying my best to make sure it’s not touching anywhere.

Where did you test the HX Ian. It doesn’t have a fill point to fit the barb in.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Use your top AN fitting and turn it so it faces up with a piece of hose, make sure the MM probe doesn’t touch metal..

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Ahh u ok. Thought it had to be running to test it.

Anyways here are some snaps on how it’s mounted [

Brought some of these. Thinking I’ll drill holes and use and nut and bolt with washers either side to mount the L brackets. Down the bottom I might do similar with a thinner piece of rubber on the bottom as the bottom prongs touch under side of radiator ATM.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

As long as it’s insulated from the Body that’ll be fine!

Yes it needs to be running you could measure it in the Reservoir as the coolant will be conducting the charge.

When you’re reassembling the car pay close attention to all of the ground points, a lot of times Stray Current can be traced back to body repairs and bad grounds that have paint on them..

Worst case I saw was back in the Supra days a guy had a brand new radiator leak in 11 days, I got talking to Norm that owns Aussie Desert Coolers and he was telling me the tubes in most Aluminium radiators are only 20 thou thick so it doesn’t take long for them to erode through and leak..

[ImmortalityParticipant 97 HSV Senator 185i 02 VX L67 Calais View build HERE Member since: August 31, 2015 Posts: 535]

Bad earths cause a whole host of issues yet most people overlook the negative side of the wiring system….

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

I’m a stickler for earth. I’ll be making sure it’s got plenty.

Does it matter that my coolant tank is in the boot?

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Careful you can have too many ground paths… you can accidentally build in Ground Loops…

Nope shouldn’t mater as it’s the coolant picking up the charge..

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