Oil Accumulator LS

[pir4teParticipant Mallala640 HP hyper-cruising SS-V Flagonwagon View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 154]

Anyone had or is currently running an oil accumulator on their LS?

Naturally as-pirated, all-motor.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

You mean like an accusump?  I was seriously looking into one when I was going LS3 with stock sump, but the LSx is priority mains and I went with the Canton race sump so didn’t bother.  From what I read and heard they are a great idea though.  Particularly if you intend doing any track days where the cars cornering or braking heavily.

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  VRSenator065.

[pir4teParticipant Mallala640 HP hyper-cruising SS-V Flagonwagon View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 154]

Yeah Accusump or Moroso, have an inkling pre-oiling the engine, particularly pressurising the lifters, cam and valvetrain on startup will prove worthwhile insurance.

Seems the weakest link in Gen IV at least is the cam/roller torque friction under 1900rpm.

Looking at three litre 35psi remote solenoid wired to ignition, plumbed at the bypass.

Naturally as-pirated, all-motor.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Yep that’s what I was looking at and the way I was going to go.  You can mount them anywhere as well.  Sort of a poor mans dry sump

[pir4teParticipant Mallala640 HP hyper-cruising SS-V Flagonwagon View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 154]

Yeah thats what I was thinking, good value, common sense improvement with no downside, except three litres more oil at change.

Naturally as-pirated, all-motor.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Been running one forever on my good engine due to the crappy design of the AWD Sump, I baffled it but wanted the extra peace of mind an accumulator gives, ran one on the rod knock prone 7M in my old Supra as well and never had a failure.

 

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

Build the engine right and it won’t need it. Unless it’s a situation like lj where the sump integrity was compramiaed

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  cava454.

[pir4teParticipant Mallala640 HP hyper-cruising SS-V Flagonwagon View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 154]

The hydraulics are a priority on this particular build as it runs high lift AFM collapsible lifters and Oil Control Valve for the Cam Phaser, which dictates critical oil supply.

Also addresses the seemingly typical under-lubrication of the camshaft face and bearings in these engines.

Naturally as-pirated, all-motor.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

I agree, not sure what you mean Cav, its also very sound insurance when you are in an oil starvation scenario, like long corners at a track, or braking etc, and it adds oil volume which is only a good thing.  And yep instant oil pressure at start up can only be good.  I think its an insurance thing, you don’t have to have it…

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

In my old Supra it could pull .95G sustained cornering on street tyres, also had a BBK so braking caused lots of slosh, without the accumulator I’d have lost engines left and right.. (lost one on a run back from Sydney before I had it, it was a litre down on oil and I had to get hard on the brakes to avoid a muppet on the freeway, got back on the power clack CLACK CLACK…)

When I dropped the L98/TO4Z in I kept the accumulator in the car, I was using an F Body sump and an improved racing baffle so bit of a belt&braces approach..

As I said earlier the AWD Sump is a joke Oil control wise, there’s 0 factory baffles in there and the Axle tube is in the way of building anything with swinging gates, I ended up making a Labyrinth baffle for it but still depend on the accumulator.

I don’t bother using it to preoil as you need to remember to charge it before shutting the engine down, I don’t even bother with any sort of control valve.

[pir4teParticipant Mallala640 HP hyper-cruising SS-V Flagonwagon View build HERE Member since: March 2, 2015 Posts: 154]

Anonymous wrote:

Been running one forever on my good engine due to the crappy design of the AWD Sump, I baffled it but wanted the extra peace of mind an accumulator gives, ran one on the rod knock prone 7M in my old Supra as well and never had a failure.

Looks great, same place I was thinking.

What did you use exactly, Accusump 3 litre?

What pressure solenoid (I take it is not manual)?

Also what paint thanks?

Naturally as-pirated, all-motor.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

pir4te wrote:

IJ. wrote:

Been running one forever on my good engine due to the crappy design of the AWD Sump, I baffled it but wanted the extra peace of mind an accumulator gives, ran one on the rod knock prone 7M in my old Supra as well and never had a failure.

Looks great, same place I was thinking. What did you use exactly, Accusump 3 litre? What pressure solenoid (I take it is not manual)? Also what paint thanks?

Yep Moroso 3Qt, no control valve at all it’s a free floating system, it’s just Satin Black VHT Engine enamel, I use it on pretty much everything I make/build.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Anonymous wrote:

I don’t bother using it to preoil as you need to remember to charge it before shutting the engine down

Not sure that is 100% right.  An accumulator more or less is a volume split into two and separated by a moveable diaphragm.  You charge one side with air/nitrogen or whatever, that never changes, so lets say 50 psi,  the oil on the other side of the diaphragm is then kept at 50 psi.  There is then a valve connected to ignition.  As you start the car the valve opens effectively pre-charging the oil system to the pressure of the accumulator (50 psi).  Then as the engine runs if the oil goes above 50 psi it expands a little into the accumulator until the volume & pressure equalise, if the oil pressure drops below 50 (say in an oil stave situation) the oil is made up by the accumulator discharging an amount as needed.  You then turn the car off and the shut off valve closes, with the oil held at the precharge pressure, 50 psi ready to do it all over again.  isn’t that right?

• This reply was modified 9 years ago by  VRSenator065.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

You need to precharge the Air side to +10 psi so it always has more pressure than the Oil side, in reality you then get your hot idle pressure less 10psi for preoiling, “might” work with a very light oil but anything else there isn’t enough “charge” in the accumulator to do much of anything at the next start, only way I found to make it work was to give the engine a rev switch the Solenoid off so you would have 50>60psi available the next day..

Also as a kid I worked for the company that made the Solenoids and they’re NOT the most reliable of controls..

[Phire aka GmfanParticipant VictoriaVT LS1 Wagon View build HERE Member since: March 3, 2015 Posts: 105]

So where did you plumb yours in IJ? I been thinking about purchasing a kit for the track build. I plan on running an external engine cooler so could i just plumb it off one of those fittings if i used a bolt on/spin on adapter?

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Phire aka Gmfan wrote:

So where did you plumb yours in IJ? I been thinking about purchasing a kit for the track build. I plan on running an external engine cooler so could i just plumb it off one of those fittings if i used a bolt on/spin on adapter?

I just T mine into the Remote Oil Filter Line, you want it to be on the OUT line of the filter so it uses the filters non return valve as a check to stop it pushing the Oil back through the Pump.

[Author]

Posts