This topic contains 18 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Micks Micks 7 months ago.

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  • #29787
    Profile photo of Micks
    Micks
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    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 1 380

    Had my 2006 VZ Crewie now for seven years.

    Originally came out with L76 & M6 trans, since owning it have converted the L76 to an L98 fitted an LS3 cam

    Pac single springs, exhaust, intake & tuned. Heavy vehicle though it puts out decent power & torque for a 6L.

    Have much more to add to the story.

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    #29793
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 771
    Supporter

    Nice, more pics buddy!

    #31027
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    Micks
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    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 1 380

    IJ was talking recently of the oem PVC LS Barbells, here’s my recent experience.

    Have read quite a few threads here about LS rear main leaks, though none appear to cover this!
    While having the LS7 clutch replaced on my 6L Crewie late last year we found the  rear main seal was weeping so had a new one installed at the same time.
    After a few months the rear went from a weep to dropping a considerable amount of oil.
    Spoke to my repairer, who then stripped it down & mentioned it was leaking from the seal & it must be a faulty one! So it was replaced again. A few days later the same started happening again.
    In the meantime I started researching this leak referring to a few forums & GM shop manuals.
    I read an article about cylinder block & rear cover plate porosity issue that can occur with these ally blocks.
    GM in the states did a recall there where people were experiencing this leak.
    With this info I bought some more parts, thinking this could be my problem, also read up on the
    LS using a pvc barbell oil bypass behind the  plate also.

    I bought a billet ally one to replace this as the rear plate was coming off anyhow.

    Whilst doing my research found the GM oem rear plates come with a seal already installed in the plate!! I referred to the engine manual in fitting the rear plate which described the installation using
    An alignment tool to correctly centre this plate around crankshaft rear boss. It appears GM spares are selling parts contradictory to how they should be installed!!
    With this knowledge I bought that plate & ordered one extra rear main seal. When I received the plate removed the seal & threw it away.
    Bought an an alignment tool

     

    With all spares in hand had my repairer strip it down for another go, removed rear plate & no signs of engine block porosity or rear plate problems either.

    What we found was the oem barbell appeared to be bleeding a considerable amount of oil from the block into the rear plate area.

    NB the rear section is not intended to be under full pump pressure hence over pressurizing the  rear seal causing a premature leak.

    Traces of this bleeding off can be seen from the barbell to the right extending to the rear main seal.

    These barbells are generally firm in place & need to be picked out of the block, mine basically fell out. The new billet one fit firmly & have a blind thread in the rear  to extract it.
    Fitted the new  rear cover & gasket applied RTV to both bottom corners where meets sump edges.
    Fitted alignment tool & centred plate, torque all bolts & removed tool. Fitted seal & reassembled
    & reinstalled box.
    No apparent leak now will be monitoring this, hopefully it could help someone else chasing this same problem/leak.
    In conclusion it appears GM spares are setting most repairers DIY guys up to fail by selling a complete
    Rear plate with fitted seal. When in reality fitting this would be hit or miss!!

     

     

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by Profile photo of Micks Micks.
    #31032
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    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 753
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    That’s hard to read with all the highlight <> dashes and shit in the text

    #31033
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    When copy/pasting here, Right Click “Paste as Plain Text”… removes all the formatting, IE dashes and shit!

    #31034
    Profile photo of Micks
    Micks
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    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 1 380

    Thanks have edited above

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by Profile photo of Micks Micks.
    #31037
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    dave
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    Member since: March 6, 2015
    Posts: 46

    Hi,

    Good info there. Have a slight leak under my L98 at the rear, will keep that info in mind when I check it out.

    Dave

    #32534
    Profile photo of Micks
    Micks
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    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 1 380

    Hey GuysI Just bought a new OEM fuel pump sender assy from GM & I’m in the midst of removing the oem inlet filter to replace this with a guauze/screen then fit an external efi filter inline under the tray. Below have posted a few pics of the inlet/ bottom of the pump. when I removed the oem filter pad it has a plastic cover over another very small port, can anyone tell me the relevance of this port as I spoke to my mechanic & he has no idea, as most just replace the entire assy & that’s about it.

    To clarify if you look at second pic the lower port is the one am speaking of.

    #32543
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    Micks
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    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 1 380

    Hate answering my own questions Though anybody that’s interested it’s a vapor out port, so for my purposes as I will fabricate a screen to cover the entire base of the pump it will be fine.

    #32545
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 771
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    Cool, no probs answering your own question, someone else one day might want to know.  Glad you got it sorted, tbh I had no idea!!

     

    #32547
    Profile photo of Micks
    Micks
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    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 1 380

    Cool, no probs answering your own question, someone else one day might want to know. Glad you got it sorted, tbh I had no idea!!

    Yes thanks, this is something Ive always wanted to do with the Crewie since owning it. A lifetime fuel filter intank is ridiculous.

    #32549
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 771
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    All car manufacturers seem to heading down the path of as long as it lasts until the warranty is finished who cares.

    #32620
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    Micks
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    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 1 380

    Further research shows the Crewman/One Tonner Cab Chassis do infact use an internal fuel filter beside the inlet sock I spoke of early in this thread. See replacement Ryco filter shell below.

     

    This inner shell actually houses the fuel pump sealed with ORings & inherent filter element to one side encapsulated in the one enclosure.

    So my plan is now as the VZ is a “returnless” EFI system. I will remove this element, discard the internal press. reg. Fit a bulkhead fitting to the sender unit, run a remote adj. press reg near the fuel tank mounted off the chassis with a short return line to the tank. I will set the reg at 400KPA/60PSI max when it bypasses it will pass excess press back through the bulkhead fitting into the tank directly to the intank OEM transfer jet.

    This jet is used to sypthon fuel from the lower hump of the tank to the main section where the pump/sender unit is situated. Crewman/One Tonners have the fuel tank molded around the tailshaft. Not the best design but what were stuck with.

     

    • This reply was modified 8 months, 3 weeks ago by Profile photo of Micks Micks.
    • This reply was modified 8 months, 3 weeks ago by Profile photo of Micks Micks.
    • This reply was modified 8 months, 3 weeks ago by Profile photo of Micks Micks.
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    #32624
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    That’s the massive filter element I was telling you about Mick..

    #32627
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    Micks
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    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 1 380

    That’s the massive filter element I was telling you about Mick..

    Took me a while to get onto to this mate, as you know big job to attend to this as a maintenance item intank. I reckon a remote filter is the best option.

    #32634
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 771
    Supporter

    …I reckon a remote filter is the best option.

    I agree 100%, I mean its a regular service item, great for production having it in-tank, but thats about all.

    #32832
    Profile photo of Fu Manchu
    Fu Manchu
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    Member since: August 19, 2016
    Posts: 4

    Laty from Laty’s Garage on Youtube has installed an external fuel filter on his one tonner. In this episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5eDT_Uf2mU&t=557s

    #32835
    Profile photo of Micks
    Micks
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    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 1 380

    Laty from Laty’s Garage on Youtube has installed an external fuel filter on his one tonner. In this episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5eDT_Uf2mU&t=557s

    Yes thanks that’s the easiest part of my mods so far, due to covid my spare parts & fittings are taking a while to arrive.

    #32895
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    Micks
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    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 1 380

    Bit of an update following some other pressing jobs I had to do, almost ready to install.

     

     

     

     

    Some may of noticed have totally removed the inherent in tank filter altogether including the intank pressure regulator. I have bought an external adjustable pressure reg, which I will mount close to the fuel tank. Have fitted a return AN bulkhead fitting to the top of the sender unit plate & with a barbed fitting which will connect directly to the oem tank siphon. I have also cut a section away from the lower bucket to ensure a good stream of fuel to the intake strainer.

     

     

     

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