HomeForumsTechnical – GeneralEngine Conversions & EngineeringVR/VS LS Engine Conversion General Information

This topic contains 97 replies, has 19 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Marc Marc 1 year, 4 months ago.

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  • #20856
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    I would imagine an aftermarket ECU would have some way of setting the trigger count (whatever its called) but I assume it may depend on what ECU exactly?

    #20859
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    Stevoss
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    Member since: August 27, 2016
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    wouldnt be a problem with a haltech. cam crank and vct phasing all adjustable. only on older ecu’s was that a firmware flash ie microtech

    #20865
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    VRSenator065
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    Yea I am guessing as an aftermarket they don’t know how many cylinders etc the engine its going onto has so would need to be cope with whatever its on.

    #20880
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    Stevoss
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    absolutely, its only the initial outlay that make them harder to justify in buying especially since the standard ecu is very good and capable of over 1000hp/ flex fuel and NO2.

    the only difference i can pinpoint in ls haltech ecu’s are dbw or cable and if you want the premium features

    #20883
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    VRSenator065
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    Yea I got told when I did mine (maybe its changed) that the VY ECU will do just about everyhting I would ever ask of it.

    #20892
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    VN304
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    Member since: May 6, 2016
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    Has anyone setup the electric astra power steering pump yet? Is it compatible with vn p/s rack?

    #22319
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    VRSenator065
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    Came across this write up I did a while back thought it may be useful to have in this thread.  I just fitted CRE 1-7/8” 4 into 1 (#CH80A) headers to mine.  After a bit of work they don’t hit at all.  I used Tuff mounts though so bugger all engine movement.  Def turn the chassis lip down about 45 degrees on the passenger side of the bay, they say that’s “preferable” but I think its a must.The other trick is they come with the drivers side two pairs of pipes, slice them in the center of the flange into 4 individual pipes so you can feed them in better and also gives you the chance to move them slightly.  The glide housing (Reid) I used is very chunky too so we had to grind some relief into the housing for clearance on the passenger side pipe that’s close to the bell housing.  We also removed the bottom section of the starter swap plate, it hangs in the breeze anyway.  We made up a bracket to support the starter that picks up on one of the rear sump bolts.  On a glide its bloody tight around the gear selector which is quite low in the case so near the pipes.  Depends on what cable you are running to it and the bracket it uses but we had to modify that also.  We also used some heat proof tubing on the cable to give it some protection.  Its tight, but putting an LS anything  into one of these just is.

     

    #22322
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    sands vs
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    Member since: March 1, 2015
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    Anyone managed to get cruise working and the trip computer for fuel average working with this?

    #24639
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    ChrisM
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    Member since: August 16, 2017
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    Hi All,

    I am doing a LS and t56 conversion in my vn calais. i have fitted the passenger pacemaker headers. i am going to do the drivers side this arvo, can anyone tell me if i have to notch the drivers side on the bell housing where the starter used to be to fit the pipes?

     

    Cheers chris

    #24641
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    VRSenator065
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    Not T56, but on my 4l65e (separate bell housing) with the paccies, I did shave the bell housing a little to give more clearance.

     

     

    • This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065.
    • This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065.
    • This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065.
    #24649
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    ChrisM
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    i am putting mine in with the engine already in place. will that cause an issue?

    #24650
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    VRSenator065
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    From memory, on mine it cleared, i just wanted a little more clearcance.  Tbh I follow lots of conversion builds, and I have never heard of anyone having to make clearance on a T56, or a 4L60/65 either.  On mine when I went to the powerglide with the Read case, (which is chunky) it needed it with the 4into1’s but I think you should be OK with yours.  be sure and post up once its in on this thread how it went, for anyone else :)

    #24653
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    ChrisM
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    Yeah i will post some pics soon mate. It looks really tight near the steering rack.

    #24660
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    VRSenator065
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    Yea it is, I dont think there is a way around it.  Going a manual VL rack gives a little more room.  Guys that dont care about engineering shift the rack across slightly.  With mine being engineered I found using Tuff mounts meant the engine hardly moved under load.  I spent ages with the engine mounts loose, and the engine on a jack and block of the wood under the sump, getting it into the best position to clear everything, I then locked up the engine mounts.  It will be close between the alternator and chassis rail too.

    #24666
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    ChrisM
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    I will post a pic when i can fifure out how too lol

    #24671
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    VRSenator065
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    Yea, I use Imgur now that Photobucket has gone feral.  If you upload your pics onto it, which is actually pretty straight forward, you then pick the drop down arrow on the image, and select “get share links” then copy the “BBCode” and paste that into the post.  At some stage i will doa  full write up on it, just haven’t had time.

    #24749
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    ChrisM
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    This is what i had to cut to fit the headers

    #25682
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    Stevoss
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    adding to the conversion basics:

    Tailshaft: vn/vs- using tuff mounts and starter relocation. tailshaft consists of cable clutch t5 tailshaft to suit your vehicle either long wheel base (wagon statesman and ute) or short (sedan) with a vs 4l60 front yoke swapped at the uni joint. this will work with both t56 and 4l60e as they are both the same length and have the same output shaft spline.

    Fuel system: for a budget dead head fuel system (single 5/16 or 8mm fuel line) capable of 450-500rwhp n/a. walbro 255lph intank pump($160). ryco z768 filter regulator (58psi or 4 bar)($45), gm 3/8 rail adapter to -6a and -6an to 5/16 barb ($70 both), efi fuel hose $7.50-$14.00 per/m, l67 42lb green top injectors (ls1 are 23lb vt early or 26lb later- good for roughly 400rwhp at 95%)

    shifter: cube short shifter, cut and modified handle to suit so it no longer has the rear dog leg section (as per photo to follow).

    pedal box: vs hydraulic pedal box with factory getrag master, malwood flexible line and remote bleeder, factory t56 slave.

     

    will add more as i think of them

    #25684
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    cava454
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    This is what i had to cut to fit the headers

    What headers mate? That’s the first time I’ve ever seen anyone have to cut to make it work.

    #25891
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    VRSenator065
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    Thought this was worth posting, thanks to a guy on the LS The World FB page.  These apparently are available and negate the need for the starter swap.  I don’t have any more info than that but thought it might be worth posting.

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