HomeForumsTechnical – GeneralEngine Conversions & EngineeringSetting Engine Posiiton on LS Swaps

This topic contains 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065 2 days, 18 hours ago.

Viewing 3 posts - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #32643
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 693
    Supporter

    The issue of header clearance seems to come up time and time again, so I thought I would write out a little procedure I follow.  If anyone else have any other suggestions please feel free to correct me or add to it.

    Exhaust and engine mount selection

    First up, Pacemakers & Tuff mounts fit the best hands down.  The Muscle Garage kit is designed with both (and is also 100% Aussie made)  I made over 500 rwhp on mine with the Pacemakers, so they can make good power.  With mine that way by cutting off the 2.5″ collectors and hand making 3″ though.I now run the CAE 4 into 1’s.  They are a tighter fit, but I dnt have to bash them etc either.  Just set them up right as per below.
    Setting engine position

    Its important to set it up right. You don’t just bolt it all up any old how. Take your time.  If its not right, if you aren’t happy with it stop.  Have a good look, and try again.  Only when you are happy with it tighten everything up.

    But keep in mind, any headers, even custom wont have heaps of clearance

    • Start with a block of wood under the sump and a jack supporting the engine.
    • Then loosen everything right off, that’s engine mounts, header bolts etc.
    • Move the engine around left to right, forward and back, up and down, to get it it the optimum position.  Header clearance and alternator mainly,  but also sump to K frame.  Have a good look all around the engine, only when you are happy with it tighten everything up.
    • Then put a trolley jack under the header end down at the collector alongside the gearbox. (do each side separately).
    • Just crack the header bolts, you don’t want them real loose, just not tight. You will be surprised how much height at the collector you can pick up (or down) on the clearance of the head to header bolts.
    • Use the jack and raise the header end up until you are happy with the height.  Again when its where you want it lock it all up.

    • This topic was modified 6 days, 2 hours ago by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065.
    #32658
    Profile photo of Micks
    Micks
    Participant
    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 855

    Yes great advice there as pipes are the biggest challenge in any V8 build.

    #32662
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 693
    Supporter

    Yea for sure.  Once you have done it a few times its actually not too bad.

Viewing 3 posts - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.