This topic contains 146 replies, has 14 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065 3 months, 4 weeks ago.

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  • #33189
    Profile photo of exec24
    exec24
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    Member since: April 8, 2015
    Posts: 435
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    Could anyone tell me what they did regarding the LS1 front steam pipes. I’m not looking to block them completely, but more so asking the question if i need to run the factory setup which is via the throttle body?

    if i understand the factory setup properly, it is used for vehicles in cold climates to keep the throttle from freezing up

    Can i bypass the throttle body hoses and just run the steam pipe from the front of the drivers side head to the front of the passenger side head,  and just block off the throttle body hose that does to the radiator or does it still need to be kept?

    #33191
    Profile photo of Micks
    Micks
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    Member since: February 20, 2019
    Posts: 1 581

    You can bypass the throttle body, though best to keep the rad line intact.

    #33193
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Yep as Mick says, but also if I did mine again I would plumb it into the water pump.  That way it’s one less visible line.  If you google it there’s info, seems pretty easy to do.

    #33444
    Profile photo of exec24
    exec24
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    Member since: April 8, 2015
    Posts: 435
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    Ok so I’ve almost got this conversion completed. The engine and transmission are all in the car everything is back together . the car cranks, continuously if i hold the ignition on but it won’t fire. So I need a bit of help

    I’ve scanned the car with my Tech 2 clone and it has no faults showing on anything including the PCM, PIM or BCM

    I have checked the injector wiring plugs with a test light and cranked it over and they all light up

     

    the fuel pump I had in it until last night was brand new. It would prime, no problem. It was a aftermarket one with a Walbro pump.  But I swapped it over just incase it I been sold a bad one.  Currently one is a second hand one.

    I’ve started checking coils and leads, cylinders 1, 3 and 5 so far have spark. I’ll check the rest tonight. While it’s cranking how often should the coil I’m checking spark. I’m use to the 5lt, with a quick and constant spark while cranking. Because it’s 1 coil firing all cylinders. But the LS seems to have a bit of a pause. Is this because each cylinder has its own coil?

    What pressure does the low oil pressure switch cut in at? To not let the engine start?

    what oil pressure should it be at while cranking?

    And what fuel pressure should it be at?

    my next thing is to check the injectors are working properly, is there a way of doing this?

     

     

     

    #33445
    Profile photo of dave
    dave
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    Member since: March 6, 2015
    Posts: 46

    Hi,

    Sounds like you checking all the right stuff. Spark, fuel. Fuel pressure should be around 40 psi. You could pull some plugs out and check if they are wet with fuel or lift the fuel rail and injectors up and crank the engine and visually check spray. Do you have fuel and spark with the ignition in the run position as well as crank position? Steam pipe you will need to run to the top of the radiator for best bleeding off of air in the cooling system.

    #33450
    Profile photo of exec24
    exec24
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    Member since: April 8, 2015
    Posts: 435
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    Ok bit of an update.

    so as mentioned all the injector plugs on the loom are pulsing, I had one off at a time and they were lighting up while cranking. I had checked spark on all the spark plugs, made sure the leads are all on. They looked a little carboned but not wet. And having replaced the pump with a spare I decided to make a small loom with a single injector plug and check the injectors were actually working. Only really heard one of the 8 click on. Tested this same harness on the Ecotec I had removed from this car and the few I tried it on clicked on/off. Also tried it on another LS1 I have complete in the shed (ready for another car) each injector clicked on/off. so I decided to just swap the rail over with the spare.  Once I done this I cranked it over and at first. Nothing had changed. But then it fired and stalled. Then done it again and it started straight up.

    very happy with the outcome

     

     

    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by Profile photo of exec24 exec24.
    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by Profile photo of exec24 exec24.
    #33556
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    First time been on the forum for a while, great work mate, bet you were happy when she fired up!!

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