HomeForumsMembers’ Builds and RidesVB – VC – VH – VK – VLHeron's VK SL Build – LS3, TH400, Sleeper Style

This topic contains 876 replies, has 30 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065 1 month, 1 week ago.

Viewing 20 posts - 821 through 840 (of 877 total)
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  • #31106
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 567

    don’t you need speedo for engineering

    im using a GPS digital speedo cause my gearbox doesn’t have the cable drive gear on the shaft

    #31137
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    VH308
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    Member since: March 11, 2015
    Posts: 32

    Probably a silly question but would 14 inch stockies fit over the VT front brakes? I’d love a set with some factory SL hubcaps but I dont think 14s would fit, I think I need 15s at minimum

     

    No go with the 14s over the VT front brakes unfortunately, 15″ at a minimum.

     

    The 14’s don’t fit VT on IRS rear without a spacer either…

    #31162
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 567

    Dropped the VK off at my mechanics last night to get the tacho installed. I was talking to him about how it’s getting hot when cruising on the freeway, he said the coolant might be flowing too quickly through the radiator and not having enough time to cool (it’s reving around 3500 at 100kmh), a shroud will help the thermo work better but mainly at lower speeds. I’m using a factory VK 6 cylinder radiator but I’m not sure if it is a single pass one, the mechanic said I should look for a three pass one to give the coolant time to cool. Anyone know how I can check mine to see what  it’s got?

    #31164
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    vin
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    Member since: June 5, 2019
    Posts: 66

    Yep as vh308 said, 15″ rim is the minimum over VT disk brakes.

    WELLLLLL there is your heating problem @ single core vk 6cyl SINGLE core radiator for a LS motor or any v8 …… I cant believe your using one especially if your 3500 rpm at 100kmh is correct … at least use the bigger core factory copper V8 radiator from any commodore VB to VL or even up to VS with cowl as a MINIMUM if you don’t want to cook the ls.

    Of course you can go crazy at a expense with after market alloy radiator/cowling with twin thermos, there is plenty available for LS. Sounds like you have run out of funds on the build, it aint as cheap as people think/say to do conversions.

    #31166
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Member since: February 17, 2015
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    ^tend to agree with Vin.  I am not sure I have heard of 3 pass radiator.  Mine is double pass, which means the tank has a divider in it so the coolant has to go across the radiator once like normal but then back across again as a second pass.  Power makes heat, that’s the prob, and the bays on these cars are small which makes it worse.  Maybe even try a cheap Chinese eBay special?

    • This reply was modified 6 months, 3 weeks ago by Profile photo of VRSenator065 VRSenator065.
    #31168
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

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    Member since: February 17, 2015
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    #31169
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 567

    As far as I knew the VK 6 and 8 cylinder radiators had the same capacity. I went with the 6 cylinder one as the inlet and outlet are on opposite sides compared to the 8 cyliner one and are closer to the inlet/outlet on the engine. Three pass is the same as your diagrm Gary but with an extra pass back to the other side.

    The radiator is working somewhat, it just gets hot cruising up around 100, it cools down when I drop back to 80-90.

    #31172
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    vin
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    Member since: June 5, 2019
    Posts: 66

    I have never heard of a pass radiator just a 1/2/3 core radiator probably the same thing. In the gen 1 commodores they were known as crossflow radiators probably what the “pass” word is now.

    In early commodores like vb/vl The difference is in the factory options fitted like air con & auto trans, the larger capacity v8 radiator was installed to cope with heavier demand even in a 6cyl.

    as gary said …. Maybe your better off with a larger 3 core capacity cheap alloy chinese radiator than trying to use the smaller vk one.

    #31173
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    dave
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    Member since: March 6, 2015
    Posts: 42

    I agree that your cooling issue is the radiator not having enough cooling capacity if it is a 6 cylinder VK item. More power you make the more heat you make and that heat has to be removed from the coolant. Meaning the surface area of the cores needs to be larger. Either more rows of cores or larger cores or physically larger radiator area. Good write up on the build, sounds like it has been an enjoyable and rewarding build. Always good when you finally get it up and running and mobile.

    Dave

    #31204
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    vin
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    Member since: June 5, 2019
    Posts: 66

    absolutely well said dave as well as the small hot air filled bay in gen 1 cars with thermos pushing that air into radiator, if original vk 6cyl car was fitted with auto and a/c it would have had the larger 2 core capacity radiator of the v8 model but its still tooooo small in all areas for any LS motor especially with a high ratio diff screaming its tits of at 3600 rpm on 100kph. Image the 6cyl radiator on a 45 C day at wot throttle, the smoke aint the tyres, LS roast anyone. you need at least a 40% increase in core size and capacity.

    #31225
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 567

    Tacho is installed and working, had to get an extra Autometer harness that taps into the coil packs for it to work properly, ended up costing more than expected but thats cars really. Converter is flashing up to around 3700 rpm

    Will look at a new radiator later this year. Can still drive it as is for the time being, just have to keep an eye on the temp. Tossing up between a copper Adrad 3 core one or alloy PWR one, the Adrad is about $570, PWR is just over a grand. Custom one from South Coast Radiators (they make quality ones and are very popular in the burnout scene so they have some pedigree) are around 2 grand, so one of those is a little out of the budget.

    Also thinking of getting a cheap factory V8 one to try, will have to muck around with new hoses as the inlet/outlet are on the opposite side, but it might work better than what i have now, and I could probably sell it for around the same cost if it doesnt work.

    #31226
    Profile photo of sands vs
    sands vs
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    Member since: March 1, 2015
    Posts: 613

    Tacho is installed and working, had to get an extra Autometer harness that taps into the coil packs for it to work properly, ended up costing more than expected but thats cars really. Converter is flashing up to around 3700 rpm Will look at a new radiator later this year. Can still drive it as is for the time being, just have to keep an eye on the temp. Tossing up between a copper Adrad 3 core one or alloy PWR one, the Adrad is about $570, PWR is just over a grand. Custom one from South Coast Radiators (they make quality ones and are very popular in the burnout scene so they have some pedigree) are around 2 grand, so one of those is a little out of the budget. Also thinking of getting a cheap factory V8 one to try, will have to muck around with new hoses as the inlet/outlet are on the opposite side, but it might work better than what i have now, and I could probably sell it for around the same cost if it doesnt work.

     

     

    I have used adrad in 2 cars and they have been great. I used it on my boosted l67 and keeps it very cool and they fit really well if it helps any

    #31227
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 567

    Cheers Sands, I’m leaning towards the Adrad one as it is copper/brass, alloy ones can sometimes have issues with stray currents eating them away. Price is attractive as well.

    #31228
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 567

    Couple of pics, camera on my phone is stuffed so I’ve been a bit slack with getting some decent pics

     

    #31229
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 721
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    looks good

    #31235
    Profile photo of vin
    vin
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    Member since: June 5, 2019
    Posts: 66

    very good look, those wheels suit the vk car with that ride height, well done

    #31243
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 703
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    Looks sweet, I am happy with my PWR, which was a burger with the lot, but it was $1500 which is a lot of coin.  Zero issues with it so far.  Keep up the good work mate looking great.

    #31251
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    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 567

    Decisions decisions. Spoke to two blokes I know that both have VK’s with worked 308’s. They both run cheap chinese alloy radiators from ebay, they both reckon their cars run spot on temp wise and dont get hot at all. One bloke was just at the Nats and spent most of each day cruising in 40+ degree heat and it didnt break a sweat. Can get them for about 150 bucks, very tempting to roll the dice and see how it goes, I’ve wasted more cash on other crap.

    #31254
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 703
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    Imo $150 is a no brainer.  Worth a try!

    #31386
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 567

    Ordered a new radiator, ended up with a cheap alloy one for 151 bucks delivered. Also ordered a VT lower radiator crossover pipe. Hopefully they arrive this week so I can start swapping them out next weekend.

    Took the family out for a drive yesterday. Noticed it kinda hesitates a little sometimes when you’re up it. Checked my scan gauge and it has a couple of throttle body fault codes, something about the high and low circuit, might be a safety thing if something is amiss it closes the throttle. Cruising is fine, it only happened when taking off and giving it a bit (yes I was doing a small skid haha). Could also be cause there is no vehicle speed sensor.

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