This topic contains 16 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of klampykixx klampykixx 4 years, 8 months ago.

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  • #6901
    Profile photo of klampykixx
    klampykixx
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    Member since: May 16, 2015
    Posts: 167

    Hi forum. First post here. Didnt realise a new forum had been made, found out via streetcommodores.

     

    Doing a V6 swap into my 99 Ford econovan for towing/carrying heavy loads with, and according to a local engineer, it has to be of the same age as the van in order for him to pass it, and apply to all the emissions related to that age vehicle,  so donor car will be a VT and as it has 290k on the clock it will get a freshen up.

    Plan is to build to stock spec, but using ACL race bearings, forged pistons, L67 headgaskets, and an adjustable cam gearset, as I want to run a turbo on it later on.

    Are there any other basic power adders I can do myself, ie porting/smoothing of the heads/manifold while its all apart?
    I saw somewhere that the oil pump benefits from mild radiusing of the machined edges and casting marks.

    I was also reading about advancing the cam ie, L67 cam gear creating a lower rpm power band, how far can i take it so im getting the best 1500-4000rpm torque band?
    any other things people could suggest just to get the most out of it without spending a ton of money on it?

     

    #6908
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    ajvx01
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 102
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    are you the same fella from sc a few years ago with a burgandy drift vr?

     

    sounds like a gutsy econovan! My window tinter years ago had an ecotec in his hiace, biggest issue was he said the vans had super hi diff ratios so economy sucked..

    #6911
    Profile photo of Phire aka Gmfan
    Phire aka Gmfan
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    Member since: March 3, 2015
    Posts: 105

    If you’re doing forged pistons and balancing I’d be getting better rods too.

    Wouldn’t worry too much about cam advance. From what I’ve seen of 3.8’s with gt35r turbos Yyou’ll have a pretty meaty mid range with right turbo selecting without heavily sacrificing top end.

    #6913
    Profile photo of klampykixx
    klampykixx
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    Member since: May 16, 2015
    Posts: 167

    Yep Aj hit the nail on the head. Wish I never got rid of it…

     

    As for balancing,  wasnt going to bother as it’s not a huge rpm machine, just building for super mild Street manners, ie stock. Maybe some basic port clean up/matching, but essentially stock but strong.

    I don’t intend on ramping up the boost massive, but just want to ensure its capable of handling it if I ever want to.

    Thinkn just a budget T70 turbo stock headers, custom Ypipe and then stealth muffled 3″ dump to keep police off it and also coz it’s a planned to be a portable PA system when out and about, like at a car show. I still do mobile dj work so I wanna just plug n play.

    This is primarily for ensuring it has enough grunt to pull up to 2tonne in the form of a second van made into a trailer full of PA system.

    #6914
    Profile photo of klampykixx
    klampykixx
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    Member since: May 16, 2015
    Posts: 167

    As for highway cruise, maths says 2500 rpm at 100km/hour and about 2700-2800 at 110.. Yeh real fuel sucking range but it’s gotta be better than 16L/100km I get with the clapped out four banger….

    #6960
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    ajvx01
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 102
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    Na the van he had was doing about 3k at 100. Must have had different driveline.

     

    small world in holden forums haha. I’d love to see pics of this build when it starts:)

    #6963
    Profile photo of klampykixx
    klampykixx
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    Member since: May 16, 2015
    Posts: 167

     

     

    Trying to attach images. Not sure if it’s working…

    #19662
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    klampykixx
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    Member since: May 16, 2015
    Posts: 167

    so i know this is an older thread, but since its mine, ill do my own necroposting !

    i have picked up my dads old VS, has a fair amount of decent bits inside the engine as it was built to have a supercharger added at some point.

    my question revolves around the electrical side.

    ive been looking at the memcal that has no VATS or security and theyre saying its for manual and auto? i thought they were specific to each one??

    my choice is wether to get the kit wiring harness, which is $350 on top of the kit price, or just go no VATS on the memcal, since ill need to update to an L67 one anyway and just make it work?

    any help?

    #19665
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    gtrboyy
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    Member since: January 20, 2016
    Posts: 201

    I think it’s the ecu not memcal that you got confused…..auto are 3 plugs manual 2 plugs

     

    Wire it up yourself,no that hard but beforehand hit up 2inl8 or delcowizzard for memcal/ecu advice then proceed…they’ll do a modded tune,vats,shiftpoins etc $160-180

     

    One thing I’d query is if should go vr ecu with map sensor etc if boosts are planned.

     

    These are just for thought.

    #19666
    Profile photo of klampykixx
    klampykixx
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    Member since: May 16, 2015
    Posts: 167

    I was actually suggested by another to run Buick management instead of ecotec.  Does the L67 not run a map sensor?

    I’ll hit up delco once I’m ready for boosts because I do want to run more than 7psi (for giggles really)

    So if I do decide to go Buick mgt I’d need to run vr so I’ve still got transmission control yes? It’s a vs box.

    #19670
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    gtrboyy
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    Member since: January 20, 2016
    Posts: 201

    vs onwards is maf even l67

     

    7psi can probably just keep it vs ecu & even n/a engine…if it blows grab another.L67 rods/pistons & topend were only real diffence to n/a.

     

    I only remember the early days with Dick’s Electronics several blokes with vt commo’s would go map sensor earlier vr ecu etc so they could be tuned properly also turn the boost up. But again those were the early days.

    Assume vr & vs ran same auto..seems that way with v8’s.I never got into modding v6’s only 5 litres & a 202 lol

    #19671
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    klampykixx
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    Member since: May 16, 2015
    Posts: 167

    Interesting.  Well looks like vr is the way to go then.

    Motor has cam and lower comp to stock plus a few other bits so should handle boost well.

    #19934
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    klampykixx
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    Member since: May 16, 2015
    Posts: 167

    so short term ill be running stock Vx motor, box and ecu

    once modified motor is ready, ill run it on l67 tune+injectors. if more power is required then ill chase a better setup.

    #20109
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    klampykixx
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    Member since: May 16, 2015
    Posts: 167

    New sub topic here guys,

     

    ive been told ill find a bit of resistance regarding VX electricals.

    can anyone help regards to the VATS and the BCM as to whether or not i can delete the BCM without issue?

    apparently i cant just put a ‘no VATS’ memcal into a VX PCM.

     

    if this is true, how much of the BCM needs to be active? can i just permanently attach the key head to it as a crude bypass?  or something similar to “trick” the PCM into thinking the BCM is active?

    #20112
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    VH308
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    Member since: March 11, 2015
    Posts: 32

    no vats memcal into a vt/x ecu and it wont look for the bcm (which is only controlling body electrical) key head is the register to bcm to activate pcm on a vats chip. so no vats means it should standalone no need for crudeness :)

    #20113
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    ^man I am getting old, I seriously have no idea what you guys are talking about :)

    #20114
    Profile photo of klampykixx
    klampykixx
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    Member since: May 16, 2015
    Posts: 167

    Vats = vehicle anti theft system

    Pcm =powertain control module (I think)

    The vx runs a flash setup not a memcal setup.

    I’m sending it to delcowizzid in NZ to have it reflashed as no vats.  Already been in contact with him.

    Can’t wait. It’s getting so close now I’m feeling three maybe four weeks max

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