HomeForumsMembers’ Builds and RidesVN – VP – VR – VSVs Ute 383 Stroker in the build.

This topic contains 249 replies, has 29 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Giddo95 Giddo95 8 months, 4 weeks ago.

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  • #21252
    Profile photo of HDN05L
    HDN05L
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
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    Thanks for Pm. Got your self a bargain. I’m really interested in this coating. Looks insane. [/quote]</p>
    To easy Cav i was just saying to vspete They did a fair bit of paint correction on my car 3000 then 5000 wet n dry. It hadn’t been wet rubbed since respray so i had plenty of clear on it.
    Ill update once i give it the first wash.</p>

    #21253
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    So on the paint is the ceramic coating effectively like an ultra long lasting wax? Might be a silly question but would it provide any better resistance to swirls and light scratches?

    #21254
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    HDN05L
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    It is thicker than wax and a lot tougher. Swirling and light scrathes wont affect it so they say.

    #21255
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    HDN05L
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    Found a few photos of the rear air bags when I was trial fitting them.

    The second 2 photos are of the bag in place with height sensors wired in as well. Overall not a huge job and definitely a smoother ride when it is lowered better than springs imo.

     

    #21256
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    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 352
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    Looking the goods. I had drop in bags in the back of my old Vz Ss ute. I loved them. Can only imagine these being better.

    #21257
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    HDN05L
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    Yeah definitely an improvement over rear springs Cav. The system is fully self levelling so as the road or load changes they maintain tge same height you have pre set.

    #21258
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    Slow355
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    Member since: March 2, 2015
    Posts: 322

    Did you have to cut the original mounts at all? As last time i looked needed to cut mounts to fit them

    munch munch ls1s for lunch
    Best 1/4 mile 13.1@105mph 60ft-1.8sec Reaction time .8 sec 0/100-4.8sec

    #21259
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    HDN05L
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    I did have to notch the bumpstop mount but not much.

    Even if you removed the bags later on and put back the bump stops you wouldn’t see it.

    #21260
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    HDN05L
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    I have a had a few issues lately with car running hot so decided to get a new radiator as the old one has a lot bent fins and they are crammed full of dirt oil etc.

    So I spent a bit of time in the garage this afternoon and fitted up 2 x 10″ thermos onto my new radiator.

    I used a BA/BF aluminium shroud with thermos already on, just need to trim around the outlets on the radiator then removed the brackets that came on the shroud and added a length of 25x25mm aluminium L bracket to the top and bottom and job done.

    Then gave the thing a light coat of black just to finish off.

    #21313
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    HDN05L
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    I had to swap out my distributor today which some of you know is a c*$^ of a job in a vs 5L

    Car is running again and i have set base timing at 10deg in diagnostic mode.

    I was just curious when you take it out of diagnostic mode what should the timing be sitting at roughly when idling?

    #21315
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    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
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    Hey If I remember right it should jump 2-3 degrees so 12-13 degrees

    #21316
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    Judge1 Frazer
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    Hey I found this and they are saying 18 degrees I don’t remember it being that but could be wrong

    5th one down

    http://www.aussiev8.com.au/holden-v8s/47264-holden-vn-5lt-base-timing.html

    #21317
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    HDN05L
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    Hey I found this and they are saying 18 degrees I don’t remember it being that but could be wrong 5th one down http://www.aussiev8.com.au/holden-v8s/47264-holden-vn-5lt-base-timing.html

    Thanks, im showing 16-17 deg on my laptop at idle so i think im in the ball park cheers.

    #21326
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    HDN05L
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    All i can say is im glad i finally got around to changing my leads starter module coil and dizzy. It is such a different car to drive, no more miss in idle and starting is so quick.

    #21328
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    Judge1 Frazer
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    It’s all ways good when you change something and I makes a difference

    #21724
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    HDN05L
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    Its that time again that I write an update on the ute.

    The supercharger is gone and the motor is now out.

    I have started collecting parts for a 383 stroker rebuild my purchases so far are,

    • C.O.M.E Racing 383 stroker kit forged pistons h beam rods etc etc
    • Edelbrock vn heads for a roller cam (it should be interesting to see how these heads perform)
    • Edelbrock Air gap dual plane manifold.
    • Hi vol sump and oil pump
    • Double row timing chain
    • Powerbond balancer
    • Magnum HD flexplate
    • Efi hardware 1000cfm 4 barrel throttle body setup
    • New ARP suds all-round

    And then all the small stuff is left to get.

    I will be re wiring the bay to finish cleaning up the engine harness and also looking at rebuilding the 4l60e gearbox with a 2800-3000 stall or another option.

    I will update with photos soon.

     

     

     

    #21726
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Sounds like a solid plan. 383 is the way to go (insert bias here). What made you go for the Edelbrock heads over C.O.M.E or Yella Terra?

    #21727
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    HDN05L
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    Sounds like a solid plan. 383 is the way to go (insert bias here). What made you go for the Edelbrock heads over C.O.M.E or Yella Terra?

    I thought you might be biased Sotta.

    To be honest it came down to $$$ as it almost always does.

    They are a nice head with a really good finish.

    I was looking at the edelbrock manifold before i thought about heads then figured they where all made to go together so why not.

    I originally spoke to Come a few times really nice guys, but was getting a bit of a run around which kind of makes sense now that they have come out and said they are retiring.

    What size stall are you running and how do you find it?

     

     

     

    #21734
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Either way you can’t go wrong. Cubes fix all!

    The converter in my thing is a bit of a mystery. It went in some time before I got the car, no receipts and the guy who built the auto couldn’t remember what he did by the time I was asking. I’m about to remove it (6 speed will be in within a couple of weeks hopefully) It’s supposed to be around 2000-2200 but it seems to be barely bigger than standard. It really needs to be more like a 2500-3000. Something I was told the other day that i found interesting and to be honest was never aware of (I’ve always preferred manuals) is that capacity makes a big difference. Something along the lines of a 2200 converter in a 304 will only be a an 1800 converter in a 383, or something to that effect. It’s a dark art to me.

    #21737
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    HDN05L
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    Thats interesting about engine size affecting the stall had never heard that. Definitely want it around 2800 – 3000.

    Your should be nice once the manual conversion is done. Always prefered a manual when i was younger now im getting lazy lol.

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