This topic contains 1,175 replies, has 48 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of cava454 cava454 2 years, 6 months ago.

Viewing 20 posts - 961 through 980 (of 1,178 total)
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  • #27813
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Last time was only dummy assembly. To measure up bits and pieces.

    #27814
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    properly won’t be the last time it’s in and out

    • This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer.
    #27816
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    properly won’t be the last time it’s in and out

    thats what she said

    #27817
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    You get pretty quick at it anyhow.

    #27818
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    You get pretty quick at it anyhow.

    my misses will agree.

    #28172
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    Hi Cava have you replaced the isolated for the supercharger if not are you going to , I don’t think the new crate motors were change they still have the spring isolator

    #28178
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
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    If it’s spring I will be going to a solid isolator.

    Ill do it when I have the snout off next.

    #28179
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Posts: 775
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    If it’s spring I will be going to a solid isolator. Ill do it when I have the snout off next.

    Roger that I just order one 75 bucks from mace engineering , still waiting on motor next week hopefully

    #28473
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Made a start on the ice box install. Everything is mocked up. I’ll head to Gisborn tomorrow and get the copper flare to JIC spec. Then I’ll come back and tighten it all up and proceed to crimp.

    I don’t think flow will be an issue.

    Also picked up some billet valve covers with should look the part.

    #28476
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    wow that cooper work looks brilliant very nice , I really like the valve covers , I was thinking for mine black valve covers and a white lsa cover as car will be white

    #28477
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Cheers mate

    You will need a scoop to fit the lsa cover. Mine sadly doesn’t fit. Gotta sell it

    #28478
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Posts: 775
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    Cheers mate You will need a scoop to fit the lsa cover. Mine sadly doesn’t fit. Gotta sell it

    I have some cleaver ideas and engineering trick to make it work , in saying that it will be a lot of work to make it fit

    #28479
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Cheers mate You will need a scoop to fit the lsa cover. Mine sadly doesn’t fit. Gotta sell it

    I have some cleaver ideas and engineering trick to make it work , in saying that it will be a lot of work to make it fit

    Assume you going along the lines of k frame spacers etc.

    #28480
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    Cheers mate You will need a scoop to fit the lsa cover. Mine sadly doesn’t fit. Gotta sell it

    I have some cleaver ideas and engineering trick to make it work , in saying that it will be a lot of work to make it fit

    Assume you going along the lines of k frame spacers etc.

    No don’t like them it will be a combo of where I sit the motor and bonnet mods but not having a scoop , fabricating a bulge in the bonnet out of two , that’s my plan hope it works

    #28483
    Profile photo of Renno
    Renno
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    Member since: March 11, 2016
    Posts: 119

    wow that cooper work looks brilliant very nice…

    I second that! Nice work on the copper work Cav  :good:

    #28486
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Something different I suppose.

    After some consideration I’m not 100% on it. I might paint the copper black or possibly even white. Thoughts??

    I didn’t take a photo but I’ve also bent up my 1/2 feed line for the fuel system. Must say it’s not fun doing it on the floor, esp when I’m using 1.1mm walled hard drawn stainless.

    #28489
    Profile photo of Renno
    Renno
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    Member since: March 11, 2016
    Posts: 119

    Personally, you’d need to introduce some copper aspects in other areas of the car to make it work 100%. Otherwise it will look a bit out of place just in the boot and under the car. Black would be my next option.

    #28491
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Looks great, what’s the reasoning behind the Copper Cav?

    #28492
    Profile photo of Andrew
    Andrew
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    Member since: November 4, 2015
    Posts: 14

    I thought copper tubing was extremely prone to stress fractures when subject to vibration, doesn’t it go brittle when repeatedly flexed?

    #28493
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    Copper was free. Cheaper and easier way to do hard line.

    We use copper on caravans etc for gas lines. If clipped right it’s ok

    This is all hard drawn copper and crimp fittings. It won’t move or bend, unless someone rear ends me

     

    • This reply was modified 5 years ago by Profile photo of cava454 cava454.
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