This topic contains 380 replies, has 16 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer 2 years, 5 months ago.

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  • #31400
    Profile photo of gtrboyy
    gtrboyy
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    Member since: January 20, 2016
    Posts: 201

    Yeah that looks weird compared to stocker…showtime customs & fabrication on fb  & website sold adjustable tierods.

     

    Vaguely remember them being advertised or maybe they sell off another model car for their angle kits

    #31402
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    Be an idea to graph out the roll centres Frazer, not looking good from the pics..

    Hey Ian I have no idea how to do that

    #31409
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Hey Ian I have no idea how to do that

    I bet that’s not the first time someone has said that to IJ! He makes it sound easy.

    #31410
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    LOL google roll centre correction or do a you tube search, the short version is at ride height the LCA’s should be going uphill to their pivots, you can buy long lower balljoints that will help as you can’t really move the pivot points upwards in your configuration..

    This was my Gumby way of plotting mine when I was building my front end.

    #31412
    Profile photo of vin
    vin
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    Member since: June 5, 2019
    Posts: 66

    Yep that front assembly is definitely not right compared to original vehicle/angles. Also looks like there is less suspension travel for ride qualities. Great insight by IJ, will definitely look into it for knowledge, good to learn something new.

    I thought the front strut assembly/ lower control arm and steering tie rod angle was to high and needed to come down by increasing the length of the strut assembly. I was interested to see how you get back the spacer height loss back at the body strut tower height since the body was raised of the kframe. I thought your new coil overs struts were made to counter the kframe spacer and get the steering and lower control arm balljoint angles back to factory original height and right ???

    I am just thinking out loud, I’m not an engineer …… but I thought kframe spacer + chassis/strut tower height increase and then having a lowered suspension height with larger rims to accommodate the larger brakes was going to be tricky. ??

     

    #31417
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
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    I’m trying to get my head around this.  So if you were to cut out the middle of the K frame and lower it.  You would achieve the same thing as spacing it down but the suspension geometry would remain standard?  is that right.  Not saying to do it btw, but if the K frame spacers are legal maybe a modified K frame is a better way to go?

    #31419
    Profile photo of vin
    vin
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    Member since: June 5, 2019
    Posts: 66

    Yes gary your right in what you said. It took me a while to get my head around it till I realised its the actual body and strut tower going up by height of spacer and the kframe/suspension geometry  staying original except for the stabilizer bar links and the steering shaft length need lengthening

    I have seen online the modified kframe you mention gary, with enough money and an engineer that would be easier way to go and that would clear the hat under the bonnet without any scoop.I think the issue is being caused by using the bigger spacer with higher strut tower height and then wanting to lower spring/shocker setup for lower body height n ride sleeper  look.

    Maybe using the smaller kframe spacer and doing a small bonnet bulge is another option.

    #31420
    Profile photo of vin
    vin
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    Member since: June 5, 2019
    Posts: 66

    Found a link to explain what IJ was referring to .. The lower ball joint has to be below the lower control arm connection into the kframe for the full tyre tread to stay contacted to road surface, that why the pictures looked weird with balljoint and steering tie rod pointing up away from the horizontal.

    https://www.whiteline.com.au/roll_centre_kits.php

    #31422
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    Thanks Ian I’ll have to do some research into that see how I go, I understand the principle but not how to plot it out , Vin that’s a good article ,

    so going to have a play this weekend  measure front then set front to standard ride height and measure I’ll have to guess unless some one can measure from centre of wheel to guard  I can only do this but adjusting the strut not the spring , once I’ve done that , take spacers out and redo ride heights

    #31423
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Welcome Frazer, looking at your pic I’m guessing that the inner pivots will need to go up about 40>50mm or the ball joints down by the same amount, not sure you’d get away with the ball joints with the little wheels..

    #31424
    Profile photo of vin
    vin
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    Member since: June 5, 2019
    Posts: 66

    Hope this helps Frazier, I can’t give you specs of suspension/ground clearances as my car is on front dolly wheels minus kframe and suspension.

    Last year I restored the rear end and wrote down all the old eyebrow heights so I could compare with the new heights. I haven’t done the front yet but the heights should be pretty close with the old front spring measurements.

    ****Tyres all round are 205 x 65 x 15” sle alloy rims, suspension/springs are STANDARD height with rear KHRS-23 springs, stock black Monroe gt gas reflex shockers….Rear eyebrow @ centre of wheel to guard lip = 370mm to 375mm at 2 rear wheels due to my sloping concrete floor….Front STANDARD old eyebrow = 360mm to 365mm at 2 front wheels, again sloping floor. So in all there is approx 10mm difference in front to rear body height.****

    Later when finished I will be changing from standard to FE2 height with 15” or 16” rims (vt 298mm disks) to lower guard gap and keep ride soft by using V8 springs KHFL-19 and KHRL-23 with the Monroe gt gas reflex as they are still ok to use with the lower FE2 springs (20-30mm lower spec).

    I agree with IJ it needs the same spacer height as the kframe spacer put into the top of strut tower to get the bottom ball joint to factory spec. I was under the impression you did this with the new coil over struts. This will raise your body and then maybe spring height is another issue and tyre/rim choice if you want to lower gap in wheel arch (eyebrow height) ? Maybe a compromise might be to put 20/25mm high ball joint and 20/25 strut spacer to get the best possible out of 2 worlds with bottom ball joint specs and lower body eyebrow height, but the 14″ rim is to small to use as IJ alluded and wouldn’t even fit standard vt 298 disks let alone larger wilwoods.

    • This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by Profile photo of Admin Admin.
    #31425
    Profile photo of vin
    vin
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    Member since: June 5, 2019
    Posts: 66

    wooops, sorry ,  did it again, I think I need to upgrade my keyboard and office word, sorry again

    #31426
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    Vin, right click paste as plain text..

    #31431
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    wooops, sorry , did it again, I think I need to upgrade my keyboard and office word, sorry again

    Fixed it for ya, but one more time and I am going to send you to the naughty corner :ninja:

    #31433
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    Thanks Guys just to confirm wheels will be 18″ just don’t have them ,

    #31464
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    Hey all well set ride height back to standard with spacers still in better but still not good so removed spacers assumed this would happed gear box mount will not work gear box went forward and had to go up 40mm have to modify mount , got about 10mm clearance from tunnel ,so dropped back on it’s paws standard height heaps of angle down (great) now lower ride height arms and steering about 5mm down at hub (awesome) other thing I am happy is a shit load more clearance form the ground to sump and K Frame and bottom of gear box is level with chassis ,,, back to the bonnet bulge it is

    Had to try it to see if this would work yes fits under bonnet “but no” there would be a way of using these spacers but you would have  to modify the bottom lca and steering to drop down the same amount even if you had standard right height would still be bad enough , so not sure how crs worked theirs out

    with spacers in gear box

    20200215_170300 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    removed spacers gearbox

    20200223_120327 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    Standard ride height without spacers

    20200223_120345 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20200223_150447 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20200223_120417 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20200223_150503 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20200223_151053 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    • This reply was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer.
    #31470
    Profile photo of cava454
    cava454
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    Member since: February 20, 2015
    Posts: 2 390
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    I may or may not have mentioned this as being a potential issue when they were first mentioned  B-)

    Step in the right direction. Maybe look into a ctsv hat? Is there a way to reduce the overall height of your mounts? Or can you sink the engine down more into the factory k frame?

    #31475
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Member since: February 5, 2016
    Posts: 775
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    Motor is as far as it will go down even a dry sump would not be any lower as for the other hat they are pricey now and hard to find with out costing a lot in freight

    #31477
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
    Posts: 0

    I’d take Handling over Bonnet every time Frazer, thinking a Bulge like a Falcon might be nicer than a scoop though.

    #31479
    Profile photo of Heron SSV
    Heron SSV
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    Member since: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 585

    Sell the blower and go turbo. That’ll keep it under the bonnet

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