This topic contains 380 replies, has 16 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer 2 years, 6 months ago.

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  • #30380
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    It does seem a lot. Just trying to imagine that, so it would basically make the bottom of the front K member that much lower assuming the body of the car is at the same height right? That would make it pretty bloody low, less than 100mm which is legal min-height here in Oz I am guessing?

     

    Hey Gary the way I see it,  it would not change here the lower arms are still pointing down so all geometry stays the same I have coil overs in the front so ride height is sorted just some height adjustment I would lose   in nz it’s a 100mm to the chassis, they have done this for years with 350 Chevy’s

    #30382
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    cava454
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    Geometry and bump steer changes. Ian can explain this at a greater depth.

    Dropping it that much create issues with rack, headers, etc.

    To gain the 48mm clearance under the car you would then have to raise the suspension.

    #30396
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
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    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Hey not being critical, at the end of the day it’s your car!  And there is a def difference from oz to NZ, and actually even state to state in Oz.  Here in SA, it is no part of the car can be lower than 100mm.  On mine, the critical area was the bottom of the headers clearance ro the ground.  Thank goodness for adjustable coil overs  ;-)

    #30404
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    Judge1 Frazer
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    Shit even the exhaust half the car here would be illegal

    #30405
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    Judge1 Frazer
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    The LCA mounts go down with the subframe, ditto on the rack mounts, all it really means is if you want the same static ride height you lose 50mm travel from the shocks. Holden screwed the pooch on bump steer anyway, eventually if you lower it too much you’ll drop the roll centres and it’ll handle like a pileOshit.. (#1 reason for the BMW build)

    What Ian wrote on page seven on the bump steer and LCA

    #30420
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    Judge1 Frazer
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    photo’s from last weekend

    Alternator

    20191027_150359 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    Starter, Flywheel, clutch

    20191027_150416 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    Bell-housing Modified

    20191027_150452 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    Mount Cut off from K Frame

    20191027_202819 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    New engine mount plate

    20191102_200946 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    with alternator installed new belt sorted

    20191102_202238 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    mount plate install just need to build rest of mounts

    20191102_203028 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

     

    • This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer.
    #30431
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
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    Nice!

    #30871
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    well have had play with mounts got part of them sorted just have to set engine and box in the right place have taken both mounts of the x member , modified the angle braces to have a bit more clearance for oil pan

    also had a L plate welded to the A/c Bracket and built up on the threaded parts just need to get it in the mill to start shaping it

    Got the larger pulley on the crank for the blower and sorted a belt for it, forgot blower was not bolted down d’oh

    found a manual rake aswell

    20191201_143834 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191221_172159 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191222_172859 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191121_210003 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191224_171454 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191221_172226 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191213_184545 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

     

     

    • This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer.
    • This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer.
    #30874
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Good wrap on the Blower pulley, engine mounts aren’t going anywhere!

    #30875
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Good wrap on the Blower pulley, engine mounts aren’t going anywhere!

    yip I like not changing top pulley should not slip, your right Ian it’s not being built to just pussy foot around

    #30876
    Profile photo of
    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    8pk belt? If so not a chance if it slipping, are you spacing the subframe down for bonnet clearance?

    #30877
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    8pk belt? If so not a chance if it slipping, are you spacing the subframe down for bonnet clearance?

    Yes 8pk belt and yes on the spacers have not put pictures up as I want to see it all done first and have it back on all four wheel with coil overs adjusted to suit , my engineer/fabricator is making the brackets for the brakes as I have not got the gear or skill to make them it’s a radial mount caliper and they are brakes don’t want them falling off

     

    • This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer.
    #30878
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Hey Ian have I got this right for engine placement centre of rails in bay parallel/square off the front level left to right and about 3 degrees back ,I have set this up and I’ll have to slightly modify the hand brake bulge as the gearbox is a bit longer than factory ones , between gear box and diff is not a straight line maybe 15-20mm the universals should compensate for that right (one Piece )

    #30880
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Sounds good, you’ll need to measure the angle on the diff flange then set the same angle on the trans output, 4 degrees on both is about the maximum, so you mean 10 to 15mm off the centre line left/right? If so yeah that’s fine. You could mount the engine off centre if it helps with steering clearence, many stock cars aren’t centred.

    #30881
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Posts: 775
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    Sounds good, you’ll need to measure the angle on the diff flange then set the same angle on the trans output, 4 degrees on both is about the maximum, so you mean 10 to 15mm off the centre line left/right? If so yeah that’s fine. You could mount the engine off centre if it helps with steering clearence, many stock cars aren’t centred.

    yip centre line 15-20mm, as for pinion angle I have the adjustable top diff arms so that not an issue , setting of centre would move closer the handbrake

    #30882
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    Anonymous Member since: January 1, 1970
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    Like most modified cars there will probably only be one sweet spot where it’ll be all good, hold off on finish welding the mounts till you’re 100% happy it ALL lines up how you want it!

    #30884
    Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer
    Judge1 Frazer
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    Posts: 775
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    Like most modified cars there will probably only be one sweet spot where it’ll be all good, hold off on finish welding the mounts till you’re 100% happy it ALL lines up how you want it!

    that’s why they are tacked plus for engineering I need them to be welded by someone with a welding ticket

    but as all ways thanks for the tips and info marry Christmas :yahoo: Santa  never brought me anything this year :-(

    • This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer.
    #30899
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    Judge1 Frazer
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    Have been busy with mounts all tacked used some C-A-D as normal had it sitting nicely using a plumb bob levelled down off the sill sides then from the gear box, diff and crank , squared a line to the front adjusted motor and box to suit, diff and gear box is about 10mm offset but wanted more clearance for air con so move motor and box 10mm to passengers side diff will be fine as building a 9″ so can sit it where I need it , will have to modify the hand brake bulge

    have a 10mm temporary spacer between the x-member and oil pan notched the angle bits on the x-member for oil pan clearance made some card board templates for mounts then made them out of 50x50x5mm angle welded together (had no Box section to make them out of ) a lot of cutting and grinding but got there, just got to do the gearbox mount

    Also motor fits under bonnet :yahoo:   :good:

    20191227_183624 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191227_170622 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191228_142531 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191228_142516 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191228_192019 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191229_142701 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191229_184446 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191229_184502 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

     

    • This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer.
    • This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer.
    • This reply was modified 4 years, 3 months ago by Profile photo of Judge1 Frazer Judge1 Frazer.
    #30902
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    Judge1 Frazer
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    Got the aircon bracket ready for milling

    20191227_214959 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    20191227_220500 by Frazer Russell[/url], on Flickr

    #30911
    Profile photo of VRSenator065
    VRSenator065
    Participant
    • Adelaide SA
    • VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)

    • View build HERE
    Member since: February 17, 2015
    Posts: 5 777
    Supporter

    Love this build mate. Seriously unless you have done one you don’t understand the time effort and thought that goes into it. Top work, going to be a weapon. Very thoughtful build.

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