LS1 into VN questions

[VN304Participant View build HERE Member since: May 6, 2016 Posts: 18]

Hi

As I can’t do any work myself, I’ve found a mechanic who has done ls1 conversions into early commodores, but im unsure if he’s done a VN, as we haven’t spoken further, and I don’t wish to get ripped off either. So I had a few questions

Im planning an LS1 + t56 into a vn. I’m not exactly on a strict budget and would like to do things right the first time. It will be a stock only engine, no mods. But I am open to LS2’s as they are going to have lower KM’s and LS1’s are getting on. Can’t afford LS3.

 

Do I need to get the CSR high mount alternator and aircon brackets? As I’m keeping the powersteering & aircon

I know a coil pack hits the VN brake booster, I don’t like coilpacks being put ontop of each other to move it out of the way, so should I get the CSR brake master cylinder that allows removal of the booster?

What did I need to change cable clutch to hydraulic? Do I need to get the Malwood underdash hydraulic peddle assembly?

CSR sell looms to suit LS1, does this mean I’ll just need to get the factory ECU, with mafless tune and VAT removed?

Im using AU thermo fans, can these be run from factory ECU? as I’d like to remove there manual switches.

Can someone explain what needs to be done If I go with an LS2 with the fly by wire throttle? Are there extra parts I need to get for that to work? IS it worth the trouble?

Will the VN fuel lines handle standard LS1 demand, or will I need to get a bosch 044 external pump?

Finally, How do I go about getting the OTR CAI to suit the LS1 in the VN?

 

If I’m forgetting anything else that I need to discuss with my mechanic, please let me know as I don’t want to miss anything. I know I’ll need the conversion kit, tailshaft and exhaust modded, along with new hoses etc.

Thanks for the forums time

 

• This topic was modified 7 years, 11 months ago by  VN304.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Hi mate,  welcome along.  Its a great conversion.  I wrote this up a while back after doing mine, I reckon its a good place start if you haven’t read it already?  After that post any questions you have mate and there are a few of us on here who have don this conversion, from basic LS1, LSx454, LSA etc etc.

VR/VS LS Engine Conversion General Information

 

[VN304Participant View build HERE Member since: May 6, 2016 Posts: 18]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Hi mate, welcome along. Its a great conversion. I wrote this up a while back after doing mine, I reckon its a good place start if you haven’t read it already? After that post any questions you have mate and there are a few of us on here who have don this conversion, from basic LS1, LSx454, LSA etc etc.

VR/VS LS Engine Conversion General Information

<iframe class=”wp-embedded-content” title=”Embedded WordPress Post” src=”http://www.commodoresplus.com.au/forums/topic/vrvs-ls-engine-conversion-general-information/embed/#?secret=xNNoZ353PG” width=”600″ height=”235″ frameborder=”0″ marginwidth=”0″ marginheight=”0″ scrolling=”no” sandbox=”allow-scripts” data-secret=”xNNoZ353PG”></iframe>

 

Thanks for the link, its answered a few Q’s but i still need clarification on a few things

 

If im buying a later model LS and want to keep Cable throttle, I make sure I use the matching ECU with a lingenfelter converter? I think i found it on there website…. 58x to 28x crank sensor trigger conversion yeah?

Instead of hunting for a VS series 3 hydraulic clutch pedal, will the malwood underdash hydraulic pedal assembly be the same thing I need?

The Astra electric powersteering pump has  caught my attention. Do you know whats involved in getting it installed? I can’t see how it would be difficult… just hoses & lines and finding a place to mount it?

I spoke to my mechanic about the sump issue, he believes he can avoid modifying anything by using spacers with the mounts… if thats true, why isn’t anyone doing it? Every K-frame and sump is modded in someway to make clearance that ive seen

Incase its been missed, i’ll be getting the majority of my parts from CSR and malwood. They seem to have the best track record.

 

 

 

 

 

• This reply was modified 7 years, 11 months ago by  VN304.
• This reply was modified 7 years, 11 months ago by  VN304.

[cava454Moderator 93 VR BT1 View build HERE Member since: February 20, 2015 Posts: 2 390]

I didn’t have to notch my sump. It just made it.

[VN304Participant View build HERE Member since: May 6, 2016 Posts: 18]

cava454 wrote:

I didn’t have to notch my sump. It just made it.

ok thats good news

I won’t let the sump issue concern me then.

[SummersParticipant Central coast View build HERE Member since: June 21, 2015 Posts: 27]

In vn the steering joint for the column to rack is extremely close to the extractors. Its a bit tighter then  the type on vr onwards. Thats something to keep in mind  careful allignment is needed of the engine mounts

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Given everything involved in the swap, which isn’t hard, just a lot of work/things, notching the sump or modifying the K frame to give more clearance is pretty simple.  Steering to header clearance is tight I reckon in them all, that’s another reason for giving the sump clearance it means you can move the engine around a little to get that right.  If you don’t do the sump you are pretty much stuck where the engine is, if that makes sense.

I have an Astra ps pump I am going to fit (haven’t yet) its really is as simple as hooking up power and the hoses, and mounting it.  Cant answer the question re the clutch as mines auto.

Personally if you haven’t started yet if it needs it I would swap the reluctor wheel on the crank and do away with the Lingenfelter box.  I have one, imo its just another thing to go wrong and mount.  Again given all the work swapping the reluctor is just another thing to do on the list.  If I did mine again I would, in fact if I ever have the engine out I will swap it over.

Malwood I have heard is good, when you said CSR do you mean CRS, i.e. Castlemain Rod Shop?  Imo their headers are not very good.  Imo if you are not chasing huge power the Pacemaker headers are the go.  Even with them I made 508rwhp.  They just fit.  If you don’t like them go for the CRE headers, they at least have slip on collectors so are better.

I highly recommend using Tuff mounts, as they limit engine movement, yes they are expensive but imo worth every cent.  I use the original rubber trans mount, its a good compromise of smoothness and engine stability.  There just isn’t much room/clearance to play with, so engine movement is a big issue, you will find it harder to stop it knocking the exhaust if you use rubber engine mounts.

Hope that helps.

 

• This reply was modified 7 years, 11 months ago by  VRSenator065.

[VN304Participant View build HERE Member since: May 6, 2016 Posts: 18]

VRSenator065 wrote:

Given everything involved in the swap, which isn’t hard, just a lot of work/things, notching the sump or modifying the K frame to give more clearance is pretty simple. Steering to header clearance is tight I reckon in them all, that’s another reason for giving the sump clearance it means you can move the engine around a little to get that right. If you don’t do the sump you are pretty much stuck where the engine is, if that makes sense. I have an Astra ps pump I am going to fit (haven’t yet) its really is as simple as hooking up power and the hoses, and mounting it. Cant answer the question re the clutch as mines auto. Personally if you haven’t started yet if it needs it I would swap the reluctor wheel on the crank and do away with the Lingenfelter box. I have one, imo its just another thing to go wrong and mount. Again given all the work swapping the reluctor is just another thing to do on the list. If I did mine again I would, in fact if I ever have the engine out I will swap it over. Malwood I have heard is good, when you sat CSR do you mean CRS, i.e. Castlemain Rod Shop? Imo their headers are not very good. Imo if you are not chasing huge power the Pacemaker headers are the go. Even with them I made 508rwhp. They just fit. If you don’t like them go for the CRE headers, they at least have slip on collectors so are better. I highly recommend using Tuff mounts, as they limit engine movement, yes they are expensive but imo worth every cent. I use the original rubber trans mount, its a good compromise of smoothness and engine stability. There just isn’t much room/clearance to play with, so engine movement is a big issue, you will find it harder to stop it knocking the exhaust if you use rubber engine mounts. Hope that helps.

 

Where do I go for the pacemaker headers youve mentioned?

And were the tuff mounts from velocity auto?

 

Thanks for clarifying the astra pump issue, its going to make a world of difference and room in the bay… is there a particular model I need… they seem to be around the 200 – 300 mark on ebay…

Apart from the above Q, im pretty confident this will be helpful for my mechanic and save a lot of headaches.

 

• This reply was modified 7 years, 11 months ago by  VN304.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

These are the pacemakers, they are what I had on at first, they fitted perfectly.  On mine I cut and made my own collectors to take them to 3″ only because of the power mine makes, but they would be ideal if your not chasing megawatts of power

http://www.pacemaker.com.au/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=122&virtuemart_category_id=27

All the info is in my build thread if you have few hours of your life to waste, its bloody long, but i did try to put a lot of detail into my posts.

I am more than happy to share everything I learned doing mine.  I assume you are getting it engineered?

[VN304Participant View build HERE Member since: May 6, 2016 Posts: 18]

VRSenator065 wrote:

These are the pacemakers, they are what I had on at first, they fitted perfectly. On mine I cut and made my own collectors to take them to 3″ only because of the power mine makes, but they would be ideal if your not chasing megawatts of power http://www.pacemaker.com.au/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=122&virtuemart_category_id=27 All the info is in my build thread if you have few hours of your life to waste, its bloody long, but i did try to put a lot of detail into my posts. I am more than happy to share everything I learned doing mine. I assume you are getting it engineered?

 

Perfect. I’ll use these with the tuff mounts

 

na, no engineering, dont have time for that BS.

however i did do a brake/suspension upgrade already to handle the increase.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

What state you in?  Engineering isnt that big a deal if you do stuff sensibly which sounds like you are 

[VN304Participant View build HERE Member since: May 6, 2016 Posts: 18]

VRSenator065 wrote:

What state you in? Engineering isnt that big a deal if you do stuff sensibly which sounds like you are

 

SA mate. Im not spending thousands on the same type of engine, especially when it won’t be modded. Im doing this instead of wasting more on getting a 355 holden, which the T5 will just die with. May aswell go LS1, and get something so much better.

I did the brakes a few years ago, 320mm or something close. Suspension is bilstein, front coilovers, adjustable swaybars, camber tops, ive had some welding done as well to stiffen things up etc.

its had alot of work done.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Yea mate, your call, all good.  I got mine through in SA, but tbh it became almost an obsession to have it truly 100% street legal.  Personally I am a massive fan of the LS platform.  Its just modern technology.  And once you have an LS in the bay, you really can just dial whatever horsepower you want.  I am only sitting around 650 now, but honestly 750 is pretty easy reach and that’s NA. Go FI, or even just nitrous and the sky is the limit.  For the record I think to get a basic unmodified LS swap into a VN in SA wouldn’t be thousands, buts again your call.  Be a nice rig once you have done it

[VN304Participant View build HERE Member since: May 6, 2016 Posts: 18]

This is my parts list for my mechanic, let me know if something is out of place

 

Complete Ls1 + T56 including Ecu

velocityauto tuff engine mounts

CRS ls1/t56 gearbox crossmember + rubber mount

CRS lS1 left hand starter motor conversion kit

Pacemaker VN LS1 headers

CRS LS1 high mount airconditioner kit

CRS high mount Alternator kit

CRS fuel rail adaptor to 3/8″ fuel line

CRS brake master cylinder 15/16 (removes booster)

bosch 044 external fuel pump

Malwood underdash hydraulic clutch pedal assembly

CRS ls1/T56 conversion loom

 

including my engine budget, this comes in at around 10g not including postage

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

• This reply was modified 7 years, 11 months ago by  VN304.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Curious why you’re deleting the Booster?

[VN304Participant View build HERE Member since: May 6, 2016 Posts: 18]

Anonymous wrote:

Curious why you’re deleting the Booster?

Coil pack is in the way of the booster and has to be moved & mounted on the pack in front of it

looks like a backyard job to me, and doing it won’t let me fit the LS1 engine cover

i might change my mind last minute because of the cost involved.

 

• This reply was modified 7 years, 11 months ago by  VN304.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

I just cut the bracket and rewelded it so the last coil is on an angle, I’m using a VZ booster which is bigger again.

A little bit of work saves you $500 right there, I also run the thicker Spacer gaskets for the YT roller rockers and it all still fits in.

[VN304Participant View build HERE Member since: May 6, 2016 Posts: 18]

Anonymous wrote:

I just cut the bracket and rewelded it so the last coil is on an angle, I’m using a VZ booster which is bigger again. A little bit of work saves you $500 right there, I also run the thicker Spacer gaskets for the YT roller rockers and it all still fits in.

 

It looks like its been moved up a little. I can barely notice it TBH

 

 

• This reply was modified 7 years, 11 months ago by  VN304.

[Anonymous View build HERE Member since: January 1, 1970 Posts: 0]

Nah just rotated it a bit, from memory I left one hole stock.

Well worth the $500 saving 

I’ve ran boosterless in the past, it’s a very different “feel” you end up with a longish pedal sort of feels like air in the system but there isn’t, it’s fine once you get used to it but if you don’t really “need” to do it I wouldn’t.

[VN304Participant View build HERE Member since: May 6, 2016 Posts: 18]

yeah youre right.. ill just have to find a way to live with it

[Author]

Posts