Basic VS race car build

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Pity your not in Adelaide could prob have lent you my flaring tool.  You might be able to make up the lines and take them to a brake place to flare after?

[Phire aka GmfanParticipant VictoriaVT LS1 Wagon View build HERE Member since: March 3, 2015 Posts: 105]

No big deal. I’ll probably end up just mounting proportioning valve in engine bay in similar fashion to you. Not what I’d wanted but once it’s set i shouldn’t need to fiddle with it. Wondering if i should get a ute master cylinder when i fit the proportioning valve?

<span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>Still would have been a bastard if i had a vice mounted flaring tool because line would still have to come out of car. I liked the idea of the inline hydraulic flaring tool but far too much to justify for one job. </span>

 

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

I reckon if its a more race car I would mount the proportioning valve so its accessible from the driving position.  Even with mine I would love to be able to make small adjustments whilst driving and testing it to get it perfect.  Hitting the brakes, getting out, adjusting and doing that over and over becomes a bit of a pita.

[Phire aka GmfanParticipant VictoriaVT LS1 Wagon View build HERE Member since: March 3, 2015 Posts: 105]

Yeh that was why the original plan had been mount it under the floor and drill small hole so knob could protrude through floorpan next to drivers seat. I have no intention of pulling solid line again but i could possibly use a flare union to extend line through firewall to the dash?

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Not really sure, does it not run across from the chassis rail sideways to the outside of the car, could you not splice it in there?  Really is outside my knowledge though with brakes on a race car.  Maybe leave it as is and have fun with the car.  Then later when you feel inclined move it if you want to?

[Phire aka GmfanParticipant VictoriaVT LS1 Wagon View build HERE Member since: March 3, 2015 Posts: 105]

Yeh i just can’t flare line on the car and don’t want to remove it again. It was a bastard getting all the lines into those rubber insulator things and back folded nicely. A union would allow me to leave the line in and just add on a section.

I’m hoping because the brakes are going to be factory hsv vt-vy front and rear as well as running a vt master cylinder that bias should be okay for now. I wasn’t going to stuff around with trying to adapt the rear brakes but for $300 it made sense so i could use common rotors and pads.

[VRSenator065Participant Adelaide SAVR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project) View build HERE Member since: February 17, 2015 Posts: 5 777]

Yea understand, does sound like do it so its easy, have fun with it and see how it goes.  Totally get after you have spent time and effort doing something going back over it again.

[Phire aka GmfanParticipant VictoriaVT LS1 Wagon View build HERE Member since: March 3, 2015 Posts: 105]

So picked these up cheap and on-sold my 265/35 tyres. I’ll just get some 235/40 size tyres and run them for now. Wheels were $180 and sold tyres for $1000. Spent $60 on a die grinder so frees up $760 for rear rotors, pads and possibly a clutch for the t5? Hoping i might be able to sell the tyres that came on the VE SS wheels for $10-$20 a tyre?

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