This topic contains 1,534 replies, has 19 voices, and was last updated by 
cava454 3 years, 2 months ago.
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When it’s done. I’ll take it for a steer.
If 4 eyes are better then 2. Then imagine Having a test pilot.
LOL won’t happen without a CAMS license and a Club membership
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Bit more thinking on the intermediate steering shaft today, I was going to make 2x shafts 1 for each rack height setting, they would have had fixed uni joints at each end as I did the Lexcen..
In hindsight this may have contributed to some of the notchiness in the steering as Uni joint don’t rotate in perfect circles, it’s more a figure 8 motion with some length change as they turn.
I’ve found a late model Rav 4 intermediate shaft new at a reasonable price and have ordered it, I’ll cut the ends off and graft on my own, the shaft telescopes so will serve 2 purposes, 1 it’ll get rid of the notchiness 2 it’ll allow length changes and make rack height changes far easier..
LOL won’t happen without a CAMS license and a Club membership
—————————————————- Bit more thinking on the intermediate steering shaft today, I was going to make 2x shafts 1 for each rack height setting, they would have had fixed uni joints at each end as I did the Lexcen.. In hindsight this may have contributed to some of the notchiness in the steering as Uni joint don’t rotate in perfect circles, it’s more a figure 8 motion with some length change as they turn. I’ve found a late model Rav 4 intermediate shaft new at a reasonable price and have ordered it, I’ll cut the ends off and graft on my own, the shaft telescopes so will serve 2 purposes, 1 it’ll get rid of the notchiness 2 it’ll allow length changes and make rack height changes far easier.. Ill pretend I’m you. Post makeover.
Race license has a pic….
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Well that’s a bit exciting, started laying out the “Office”.. got everything on today’s list done time to veg.
VRSenator065
- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777
Love the telescoping Rav4 idea, very neat. And that last pic there looks sensational, you gotta be happy with that!!
Yep it solves a lot of issues in one go and means I only have to make half the parts!
It’s all just a mock up atm, but yeah I’m pleased, I’ll spend a bit of time on the ergonomics as hopefully I’ll be spending a bit of time in there once it’s all done!
While I’m waiting on some more steering parts to arrive I thought I’d continue the “office” theme and look at the Brake pedal, of course being American it uses imperial hardware, but not any old imperial but 5/16 UNF…
I could feel another Bendigo trip coming up but as I had to go to Kyneton anyway I figured I’d have a look in Autopro as they have some imperial stuff on a Champion roundabout..
Success, came home and assembled the pedal box, bzzzz way too long as the floor slopes updo it would mean recessing it into the torque box on the wheel well…
Thought I could flip the cylinders and hang it like a normal car but there’s a few things in the way and it would mean building a pretty substantial frame for it, half the reason for going this way was to save weight and lower the CoG..
While I was fiddling I would the pushrods in a bit and that shortened it quite a bit, I flipped the cylinders back over then had another look at a floor mount, I think it’ll work fine, being 4 wheel discs there shouldn’t be a lot of pedal travel.
A few benefits mounting it this way is it’ll be very easy to bleed with the remote mount reservoirs, the cylinders will be easier to bleed as well as their bleeders will be higher with them mounted on an angle per the last pic with a small access panel cut into the firewall..
99% sure this is how I’ll go but as always open to suggestions.
After a bit of umming and ahhhing I pulled the pin and decided on floor mounting the pedal assembly, there were many pros and cons for each..
Cut the hole to receive the ends of the master cylinders, there’s only so many hours I can spend bent over into the footwell before my back lets me know it’s not happy..
Will get a bit done in the morning but it’s going to be 34c here so not ideal welding weather past morning..
Looked at the destructions that came with the master cylinders and they say for 2 LARGE calipers to use the big reservoir, I can’t see it being an issue for sprints as my pad wear is almost non existent, will keep an eye on it in use, the small reservoirs are 120ml the large just under 300ml.
VRSenator065
- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777My lad is always banging on to me about how good floor mount pedals are for racing compared to conventional. Looks like a very nice solution (again!!)
Haven’t actually driven anything with floor mounts other than a VW Bug… But I’ve heard similar reports!
VRSenator065
- Adelaide SA
- VR Senator LSx454 1960 Kombi (project) 1921 Nash Hot Rod (future project)
View build HERE
Posts: 5 777My 911 had them .But of course it was the lazy old mans tiptronic, so no heel and toe required…
The fact that you can do all this at home is a credit to you.
My 911 had them .But of course it was the lazy old mans tiptronic, so no heel and toe required…
I left foot brake even in Auto’s, I have just enough room to the left of the pedal for a heel rest so will see how it all goes!
The fact that you can do all this at home is a credit to you.
Thanks Sands, it all comes from necessity as I can’t afford to have this sort of work done not to mention there’s not a hope in hell of getting someone else to build what I want, it always ends up as their vision of what they think you need no matter how specific you are…
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My back is still a bit sore from yesterday and it’s already 32.5c here so the executive decision is its a CBF’d day
Done for the day, didn’t want to risk a repeat of the sore back thing, luckily I could do a lot of it from the outside, will make the pedal box mount tomorrow.
Well that was a bit frustrating towards the end, got the mount done, started bolting it in, moved into the front right bolt and as there’s no room I was using a ratchet ring spanner..
It went on ok, I tightened the bolt only to find I couldn’t get the spanner out.. DOH, it was stuck between the horizontal and vertical bolts, pulled most of it back apart before I could get it out, lesson learnt..
I also modded a DBW throttle pedal so I can floor mount it to match, enough for today.
Judge1 Frazer
- new zealand
- 1983 VB LSA MG9 6060 6 speed
View build HERE
Posts: 775mate where do the other pedals sit that’s tight for room
There’s only 1 more to go in, dead pedal will just be a nub as there’s not a lot of time that you’re not accelerating or braking, it was always going to be a bit tight with the engine relocation.
I could have gained a couple of inches with the tunnel and firewall but then it just makes it impossible to work on in the car, another thing I learnt from the Lexcen.
Quickie this morning, I now have potential Stop and Go!
There are literally 100’s of little jobs like this left, 1 at a time though, I’ll get there, chucked a seat in and can pedal no probs even in my work boots, race boots should be no hassles at all as they’re Ballet slippers by comparison.
Very snug. With the accelerator. Won’t that be uncomfortable with the controller in the way?
There will be a false floor level with the rail on the left side, my heel is actually to the side of the pedal box so it’s much better than it appears Cav.
I chucked a seat in and had a pedal, no probs at all in my work boots and my race boots are much smaller, I drive with both feet.
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